'^^^•. . * 



A TOUR 

THROUGH THE WEST 

WITH THE 

JERSEY CITY ELKS, No. 211 

ARRANGED AND WRITTEN 

BY 

IDA A. VAN LOAN 




NEW YORK 



(0:GIA265430 



Copyright, 1910 

By 

I. A. VAN LOAN 



Isaac H. Blanchard Co. New York, Printers 
Edward McWhood, New York, Binder 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Los Angeles Special i 

Kansas City, Mo. 5 

Las Vegas, New Mexico 9 

Albuquerque, New Mexico 11 

Laguna, New Mexico 14 

Grand Canyon, Ariz 16 

Redlands, Cal 2.*] 

Riverside, Cal 29 

Los Angeles, Cal 32 

Catalina Island, Cal 40 

Mount Lowe, Cal 44 

Santa Barbara, Cal 61 

Paso Robles, Cal 64 

Del Monte, Cal . 66 

Santa Cruz, Cal 69 

San Jose, Cal 73 

San Francisco, Cal 76 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Shasta Springs, Cal 80 

Portland, Oregon, 82 

Seattle, Wash 87 

Dalles, Oregon 93 

Pocatello, Idaho 95 

Yellowstone Park, Wyoming 98 

Salt Lake City, Utah 120 

Glenwood Springs, Colo 131 

Colorado Springs, Colo 136 

Denver, Colo. 138 

Homeward Bound 141 



COMPANIONS OF OUR TOUR 



Farrier, Fred F. 
Smith, E. J. 
Cassidy, William H. 
Larkin, Thomas F. 
Schmidt, Miss Amelia 
Michenfielder, Amelia 
Schmidt, Miss C. 
Cunningham, William 
Schmidt, Oscar 
Wescott, Ellsworth C. 
Wescott, Mrs. E. C. 
Jaegar, Frank A. 
Hunt, Charles 
McCullough, William 
Vill, George 
Clark, Frank 
Roth, Harry 
Raife, Claude B. 
Scragg, Robert 
Hasker, John H. 
Winters, Augustus, Jr. 
Winters, Miss Edith 
Winters, Miss Anna 
Winters, Augustus 
Winters, Mrs, Augustus 
Renan, Miss Ella 
Finger, Miss Kate 
Mener, Mrs. E. J. 
Clark, Mrs. Lucy 
Bull, Miss D. E. 
Jaken, Miss B. L. 
Laing, Edward 
Laing, Mrs. Edward 
Williamson, James R. 
Hayes, John 
Tracy, John A. 



Knapp, Mrs. Edward 
Black, Heistand G. 
Black, Mrs. H. G. 
Feel, Clarence E. 
Finley, Alexander 
Wessels, E. R. 
San ford, Fred 
Sanford, Mrs. Fred 
DuflF, William 
Duff, Mrs. William 
Cook, A. A. 
Coyle, J. A. 
Roberts, A. D. 
Roberts, C. C. 
Mehl, Henry 
Freind, Andrew 
Schmidt, C. H. 
Schmidt, C. H., Jr. 
Nichols, G. L. 
Kach, W. L. 
Wears, F. J. 
McNamara, F. J. 
Nolan, M. 
Schmidt, E. G. 
McMahon, J. O. 
McMahon, Mrs. J. O. 
Boehler, E. F. 
Boehler, Mrs. E. F. 
Kallish, W. K. 
Dayton, C. J. 
Stenemen, F. S. 
Baneo, John 
Barslow, H. A. 
Jacobs, E. B. 
Reinhardt, J. F. 
Dietz, C. 



Keilt, Bernard J. 
Pyatt, Mrs. George M. 
Van Loan, Miss I. A. 
Pyatt, Lester A. 
Gardiner, Robert A. 
Klein, Michael 
Klein, Mrs. Louise B. 
Scharwath, John A, 
Scharwath, Mrs. J. A. 
Apgar, Walter A. 
Apgar, Mrs. Y. A. 
Solman, James 
Moyer, Freeman 
Leo, James 
Leo, Stewart 
Ward, Morris 
Bluett, Michael 
Finn, W. A. and child 
Finn, W. J. 
Knapp, Edward 



Dietz, Mrs. C. 
Dietz, Miss A. 
Dietz, Miss B. 
Sage, Mrs. E. F. 
Adams, Miss Carrie 
Waite, E. C 
Waite, Mrs. E. C. 
Murray, P. J. 
Murray, Mrs. P. J. 
Kelley, Mrs. Thomas 
Gescheidt, Mrs. 
Baumgarten, Miss W. 
Herbold, Miss K. 
Sterling, F. H. 
Sterling, Mrs. F. H. 
Demares, A. J. 
Taylor, Samuel 
Vincent, Capt. R. R. 
Woodman, Walter 
Goehring, George 



PREFACE 

This little volume is written, hoping it will be a 
pleasant memory, to those who were on the tour, re- 
minding them of little incidents as they peruse its pages, 
and to those who were not, it will suffice as a simple 
little story. The information contained herein is mostly 
from facts gained on the tour, the Santa Fe Co., Denver 
& Rio Grande and Northern Pacific Co., all of these 
companies giving me booklets containing valuable and 
interesting information, from which I have taken 
extracts. 

Ida a. Van Loan. 



Tour Through the West 



LOS ANGELES SPECIAL B. P. O. E. 

Our train left Jersey City July 5, 1909, at two-twenty- 
two, consisting of three Pullman stateroom coaches, 
two Pullman sleepers, an observation, dining, and bag- 
gage car. We of the Bayonne party numbered ten 
individuals, and a great many friends came to see us 
off, among whom were Rev. Mr. McGuire, chaplain of 
the Bayonne Elks, and Mr. De Wauters. The Jersey 
City and Hoboken lodges were ahead of us, and the 
platform was crowded with their friends, who were 
singing, and having a fine time in general. As the 
train pulled out from the shed, we were shaking hands, 
and those outside wished us all kinds of good times and 
God Speed. A great many of the party were on the 
observation car singing "Auld Lang Syne'' and waving 
farewell. Everyone seemed to enter into the spirit 
of fun, and as far as I could see no one was gloomy, 
or downhearted, as is sometimes the case with friends 
who are separating for so long a journey. As we 
started out the porter came and gave us large paper 
bags for our hats. Some of us had brought them from 
home; but they were not so large. We settled our- 
selves in our seats, and began to look around to see 
who our neighbors were. Just ahead of us was a whole 
family, father, mother, their two daughters, and a son, 

1 



who made life quite lively in our car. There were 
just twenty persons in all, and we soon became ac- 
quainted. We started out via the Lehigh Valley, stop- 
ping at Newark, South Plainfield, Easton, South 
Bethlehem, Allentown and Wilkes-Barre, for passen- 
gers who had joined with the Jersey City Elks' tour. 
We spent a pleasant afternoon watching the pretty 
mountain scenery, and when dinner was announced we 
were all ready, eager to be the first to dine. There 
were one hundred in our entire party, and it required 
quite some time to serve us, as only forty could be 
served at one sitting. After dinner we talked, and 
some of us went to the observation car, where they 
were singing, and one gentleman recited and made quite 
a speech. Being tired from the excitement of leaving 
home, and meeting so many strangers, most of us re- 
tired quite early. Whenever I could do so, I usually 
traveled by boat, especially at night, and this event 
was my first experience of train sleeping. It seemed 
quite funny to me to get up in my bunk to undress. 
The first night I took off very little clothing, as I had 
an upper berth, and it seemed so awkward; but I soon 
became used to it, and rather enjoyed the novelty. I 
put in quite a fair night, and the next morning my 
aunt and I were up very early. I was quite hungry 
and ready for breakfast. There seemed to be no one 
else moving, so we went back to the observation car, 
where a gentleman told us the time had changed at 
Buffalo, and we were an hour earlier, consequently we 
had risen at five o'clock, and had to wait another hour 
for breakfast, to which we did full justice. At Buffalo 
we lost three hours, waiting to be switched on the Lake 



Shore tracks. We were speeding along rapidly, on a 
fine level stretch of country, all farms and vineyards, 
finally passing a station called State Line, which a 
gentleman told us was the boundary line between the 
States of New York and Pennsylvania, we thoroughly 
enjoyed the eajrly morning scenery, although a trifle 
cloudy. After breakfast we were all busy cleaning our 
little flats, as we called our sections. The porter dusted 
the window sills and seats, in the way men usually do 
such work, by flinging the duster at the dirt, to settle 
elsewhere. Women do house work in a much neater 
manner ; we all put our hats in the large paper bags, and 
placed them under the seats, then talked and watched 
the scenery until we reached Cleveland, where a great 
many jumped of¥ to exercise their limbs, but where very 
little could be seen, as it had become very cloudy. We 
stayed at Cleveland only a few minutes, just long 
enough to be switched on the tracks of the Big Four. 
Most of us dozed all morning. About 2 p. m., two of 
the committee came through the cars with small pack- 
ages, tied with purple ribbon, which on opening we 
found to be souvenirs from Colgate's perfumery house 
in Jersey City. I brought mine home. At two- thirty 
it began to rain hard while crossing the state of Indi- 
ana. Our schedule called for Chicago as first stop; but 
we went by way of St. Louis instead, arriving there at 
8:30 p. M. It being dark we could not see much of 
the city, but each group managed to go somewhere. 
Our party took a trolley ride to Forest Park, quite a 
distance up on a high hill. It was all brightly illumi- 
nated, similar to Coney Island, only on a smaller scale, 
and the approach going up the hill was a very pretty 

3 



sight. We had our photos taken on a post card, and it 
is needless to say, they were beautiful. It was a very 
oppressive night, not even a breeze riding. We went 
back to the train, and it was so warm, we slept very 
little. 



KANSAS CITY, MO. 

In a pouring rain we arrived at Kansas City 7:30 
A. M. After breakfast we were met by a medium-sized 
Elk, who escorted us to trolley cars, which took us up 
to the Elks' Club house, where they gave us a hearty 
welcome, assisted by a fine band which played almost 
incessantly. We went all through the building, and 
some of our party, who had risen quite late, were served 
with breakfast. In fact we all could have partaken, 
had we so desired, they had such a bountiful supply. 
We were scheduled for a ride in the sight-seeing cars; 
but quite a number preferred staying at the club house, 
so it was called off. In the office of the club house was 
a large supply of post cards free to all ; but as is usually 
the case, first come, first served, a great many did not 
get any, where others had half a dozen or more. A 
lady who must be a great worker for the Elks came in, 
and the first thing she did was to call up the automobile 
office to send cars to take our party for a ride through 
the city. It was not raining quite so hard then, and by 
the time we were half over the course, it stopped en- 
tirely. The boulevards and park drives cover thirty 
miles. We were on Gladstone boulevard, and saw some 
fine homes surrounded by beautiful grounds, hand- 
somely laid out. The names of the streets are set in 
the flagging on the sidewalk. Kansas City has a popu- 

5 



lation of 300,000 and covers an area of forty-three 
square miles, also has 163 churches, 60 school buildings, 
225 miles of paved streets, and ranks first in the agri- 
cultural implement trade, second in number of railroads, 
there being twenty-two systems entering Kansas City, 
third in amount of telegraphic business. It also has 
many beautiful parks, and the greatest convention hall 
in the country, seating capacity 15,000. Enrolled in 
the public schools are 30,600 children, under the con- 
trol and instruction of 875 teachers. We were taken 
back to the Elks' club, and served with claret punch, 
then we sat out on the fine wide porch until it was time 
to go back to the train. We were presented with 
badges of purple ribbon with Kansas City in white 
letters, and an Elk button, when the same medium 
sized Elk escorted us to the trolley and then to the 
train. Shortly after leaving Kansas City, we experi- 
enced quite a delay: a washout and flood from heavy 
rains. The water was rushing across the tracks; both 
sides were flooded, and the bundles of wheat and grain 
were floating all around, and coming toward us lively. 
A group of workmen were near the tracks, and one man 
on horseback, with the horse's head just above the 
water, was feeling his way, and trying to find the body 
of a comrade who had perished, and whose dead horse 
was floating along. The group of men were all in the 
water near a post eagerly watching the man's approach, 
for in case of a sunken hole, they would go under, but 
they reached the goal in safety. Two wild rabbits were 
running along, close to the rail, and skimming through 
the water, when a dog spied them; he made one bound, 
and the rabbits disappeared under the train. The train 

6 



was just moving, oh! so slowly; but the dog was afraid 
to venture, so the poor little rabbits got away. We got 
over the place safely. When a little further on we came 
to one much worse. We could just see some of the tree 
tops, and the water covered the first step on our car; 
most of us had our windows open and were kneeling 
on the seats, watching the wonderful sight, but did not 
seem to realize the danger we were in. I was told one 
train came through after we did, and no more could get 
through for two days. They say floods are quite frequent 
in that section, and although we often read of them, one 
must see it to realize what it really is. Before reach- 
ing this point, we made seventy-six miles in eighty 
minutes, trying to regain our lost time. We made a 
very short stop at Topeka, Kansas, just long enough to 
hustle off the train for a stretch. Topeka, the capital 
of Kansas, has a population of 48,975, forty miles of 
electric car system, two parks with picnic grounds, fair 
grounds, race track, numerous mills and factories, large 
grain elevators, ice companies, packing companies, foun- 
dry and machine works, vinegar and preserving works, 
forty-five miles of paved streets, court house, state house, 
insane asylum and reform school, and ten hotels. At 
Emporia, Kansas, the Santa Fe Hotel is a splendid 
three-story colonial structure, built of buff brick, 
trimmed with white-dressed stone. N broad arcade, held 
in place by pilasters of brick, runs across the front of 
the building. The oflice and dining-room are furnished 
in the colonial fumed oak combination, decorated to 
correspond. There are only eight guest rooms in the 
hotel, very prettily furnished. The dining-room seats 
seventy-two persons and the lunch room twenty-four. 

7 



The meals served are Harvey's best. The Bisonte at 
Hutchinson, Kansas, is another of the famous Fred 
Harvey hotels, which is of the early English period, 
built of brick, with heavy gables and red tiled roof, with 
spacious verandas running entirely around the house. 
Bisonte is the Spanish word for Buffalo, where in the 
earlier days they were plentiful. Below Kansas City 
we cross the Missouri River, on the Santa Fe, where 
the gradual climb begins toward the first of the great 
divides, which shuts off the valley of the Mississippi 
from the Pacific coast. We go diagonally across Kan- 
sas, past fruitful farms, and towns of surprising activ- 
ity, on to historical Dodge City, where we stopped just 
long enough to purchase a few cards and I mailed a few 
to friends of mine on Long Island, by the name of 
Dodge. After luncheon a few of the committee came 
through the cars, with their arms full of boxes of 
candy. They gave each of the ladies one, and we en- 
joyed it immensely. The room where they kept all 
the good things to drink was at the end of our car and 
there was usually a lively crowd in there. Two or 
three times a day some one would ask us to have some- 
thing to drink; we drank what they called S. K. or 
White Rock. There is no telling what the men drank, 
but they were all out for a good time and I am sure 
most of them had it. Between visiting one another, 
and card playing we all managed to spend pleasant 
hours on the train. We were almost a day and a night 
crossing the Kansas plains and had very heavy thunder 
storms in the evening. Before dinner Mr. Vincent, our 
tour conductor, came in our car, and gave us a fine de- 
scription of the country we were passing through. 

8 



LAS VEGAS, NEW MEXICO 

We arrived at Las Vegas, 8 a. m., where there is 
a fine Fred Harvey hotel. The Castaneda. The morn- 
ing was quite cool. Las Vegas is a Spanish name, and in 
English means meadows, and when the earliest Spaniards 
first visited the present site of the city, they found it 
the favorite grazing grounds of the elk and deer. At 
the present day it is a favorite place among Elks, as 
quite a large ** herd " have gathered there. The lodge 
of B. P. O. E. was instituted January 20, 1898, being 
the first lodge of Elks organized in New Mexico. It 
is the oldest lodge in the territory. It had a char- 
ter membership of forty-five; to-day 302 members 
in good standing belong to the lodge. They have 
no club house, but expect in the near future to build 
a magnificent edifice, which will be a credit to the city 
and members. The Las Vegas lodge numbers among 
its membership the chief justice of the territorial su- 
preme court, the United States district attorney of New 
Mexico, and an ex-governor of the territory ; practically 
every business man of the city is a member, including 
the bankers and capitalists. It is said of Las Vegas 
that it has the most select membership of any lodge 
in the southwest, and this is saying a great deal, for 
in the states and territories embraced in the southwest 

9 



are some mighty fine lodges. Las Vegas is directly 
on the line of the old Santa Fe trail, from Kansas City 
to Santa Fe, over which fifty years ago the prairie 
schooner held right of way, when not disputed by the 
Indians. It has a delightful summer climate, and its 
elevation is 6400 feet above sea level, giving it a dry, 
exhilarating climate in winter as well as in summer. 
West of the city lie the foothills of the Rockies. A 
drive of three hours on the famous scenic highway will 
take you to Harvey's mountain resort, where you are 
charmed by the beautiful mountain scenery, towering 
clifYs, forests of pine, spruce and aspen, deep and narrow 
gorges, and sparkling rivers full of trout, which fascinate 
the tourist. To the east lies an agricultural empire await- 
ing development. To the west lies a hunter's and 
camper's paradise. There are 10,000 inhabitants and 
the city is modern and up-to-date. It is the county 
seat of San Miguel county, which is larger than the 
state of Massachusetts; it has churches of every denom- 
ination, public, high, and normal schools, electric light, 
traction cars, numerous automobiles, burros and one 
policeman. On our way to Albuquerque we pass the 
San Dadai mountains and dry river beds full of mes- 
quite and bunch grass, which very much resemble a 
sand desert; this portion of land is dry nine months 
in the year, filling up in winter from storms. The 
thermometer was 100 this day, yet it did not feel as 
warm as 80 in New York. 



10 



ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO 

Arriving at Albuquerque we visited the Harvey 
Museum, which is part of the station. Inside were 
Navajo Indians weaving* and a Httle child three years 
old sat by its mother weaving also. All sorts of curios 
seen there. Mexican filigree work, pottery, fancy 
woven baskets and the pretty sombreros, blankets and 
rugs, and all sorts of bead work. The city is very pic- 
turesque. You ride in the trolley cars with blanketed 
Indians, and the important Spaniard, and a village of 
Navajo hogans nestles near three-story business blocks, 
and cow-punchers with jingling spurs, and old Mexi- 
can peons with vast sombreros mingle with Eastern 
tourists. This city is the ideal point from which to 
visit all of the more interesting Indian pueblos and ruins 
of the southwest. The Alvarado hotel here of the 
Harvey system is said to be the finest railroad hotel 
on earth, and cost $200,000. It is the chief distribution 
point for the Fred Harvey news, curios, and dining 
service in the southwest. A new recreation hall is 
planned to cost about $30,000, the site for which is 
ready. The value of the Santa Fe Company's pro- 
perty here is estimated at $3,500,000, and the freight 
business amounts to millions of dollars yearly. The 
Elks are among the strongest of fraternal and social 

11 



organizations, with a membership of over 400, and have 
erected a fine $75,000 theatre building, where they have 
club rooms, spacious banquet and ball rooms, armory, 
buffet, billiard rooms and offices; the theatre which has 
good fire protection seats 2000 people, and is the best 
between Denver and Los Angeles. Excellent stock 
companies fill long engagements at the Elks' Theatre. 
Albuquerque is just twenty-five years old. Its popu- 
lation is about 25,000 and covers a territory of 500 
square miles. In the vicinity of Albuquerque the valley 
is from five to ten miles wide, threaded everywhere 
with irrigating canals, for farms, meadows and gardens. 
The city has fifty miles of fine streets and the best of 
cement walks, has great sanitariums for health seekers, 
and is the shipping point of prosperous mining districts. 
The United States Indian school has an enrollment of 
350 Navajo and Pueblo boys and girls, and is one of 
the largest and most successful Indian schools conducted 
by the government. It has a force of thirty-four offi- 
cers and teachers under the superintendent, and covers 
sixty acres, and cost $250,000. While at the museum a 
lady decorated us all with a badge of ribbon, B. P. O. E., 
No. 461, on which was attached a small sombrero. 
While waiting for the train to pull out, we had great 
sport trying to snap the Indians. They do not like you 
to take their picture, and if they catch you, will come 
and ask for money. One of our party gave a squaw a 
quarter, and kissed her just as the other party snapped 
them. They are certainly a dirty looking piece of 
humanity, with their hair hanging loose around their 
faces, and their clothes are every thing but tidy. There 
were two or three Indian girls there dressed in our 

12 



costume, with white waists, sailor hats, and their hair 
braided. They looked very genteel and intelligent. All 
of those around the station had something to sell, 
mostly pottery. From Albuquerque west the train 
climbs once more up to and over the Continental Divide, 
and rushing down its western slope crosses to Arizona. 
Midway in the down hill run is Adamana, the nearest 
station to the petrified forest, where are several thou- 
sand acres of huge petrified trees, glistening in all colors 
of the rainbow; but we did not go there. 



13 



LAGUNA, NEW MEXICO 

We arrived at Laguna about 4 p. m., where we saw 
peculiar looking houses made of rocks and sand, dried 
by the sun, after construction. We climbed to the top of 
the hill, on what they call the pueblo, and saw the In- 
dians in their snake dance; they were all tattooed and 
in fancy costumes, with feather headgear ; they had bow 
and arrows and swords. Dr. Williamson of our party 
joined in the dance with a large sombrero on his head, 
and toward the finish about a dozen were in with them, 
yelling and whooping, which seemed greatly to amuse 
everyone. When the dance was over we all threw coins 
among the Indians, and such scrambling as there was. 
The children jumped in and picked up the money too. 
A great many of us took snap shots at the little tots, the 
squaw with the papoose, and others; mine were not a 
success. I hope some had better luck. We came down 
to the train, a great many of the Indians following to 
sell their wares. While waiting for the train to start, a 
young girl came across the field on a bronco; she rode 
finely, and someone said she was the daughter of the gov- 
ernor back of the hills. Leaving Laguna we passed a 
great many peculiar looking Indian homes, most of them 
made of mud or sand, with flat tops, just about high 
enough to stand up in, and some were made of logs. We 

14 



saw quite a few herds of cattle. After dinner we sat and 
talked awhile ; but it took so long for the porter to make 
up all the bunks, we usually had ours made up among 
the first, then we would have to shift our traps from 
one bunk to another, and finally take them back, and re- 
tire. One night a young girl said, " Ma, please hand me 
my kimona,'' when a gentleman called out, " What is that, 
something to eat?'' 



15 



GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 

Half way across Arizona, at Williams, a branch road 
leaves the main track to the greatest scenic wonder of 
the world. We arrived at the Grand Canyon at 8 a. m. 
July 9, expecting to see a grand sight, as we stepped off 
the train; but first we have to climb a long flight of 
stairs that lead to the hotel; as you reach the top you 
can see a great deal of it; but the nearer you get to the 
edge, the more wonderful the view. A low parapet 
marks the edge, and a number of benches are ranged 
along for visitors to witness the wonders. The spectators 
are silent, awe-struck. It is like looking into another 
world, different from anything you have ever seen be- 
fore. For a distance of nearly five hundred miles the 
Colorado River flows through a series of deep canyons, 
culminating in the Grand Canyon of Arizona. This 
chasm begins near the mouth of the Little Colorado 
River and extends southwest two hundred and seven- 
teen miles. The granite gorge section is sixty-five miles 
long. Here the plateau level varies from 6500 to 8000 
feet above the sea. The rock strata are many tinted, 
creating a rainbow sea of color. There are safe trails 
from three points on the southern side from rim to river, 
Bright Angel, Berrys, and Bass. For the first two miles 
of Bright Angel trail it is a sort of Jacob's ladder zig- 

16 



zagging at an unrelenting pitch. At the end of two 
miles a gentle slope is reached, known as the blue lime- 
stone. As you descend the way looks gloomy and the 
gorge narrows; the traveller stops beneath a cliff 500 
feet high, where there is an Indian grave, and pottery 
scattered about. This place is called the temple of Seth. 
A little beyond this point the animals are abandoned and 
the pass becomes very narrow, rough and difficult until 
the sandy rift is reached, when they return to the ani- 
mals, and camp is made for the night, returning the next 
morning. Some make the trip in seven or eight hours ; 
but it is more restful to remain in camp over night. We 
saw a party descending and they looked like small ani- 
mals ; we had to watch long and closely to observe them 
at all, and when they returned in the evening, you never 
saw such worn-out looking people. I have been told the 
awful wonders of the trip make some people hysterical. 
I should think they would. The party leave the hotel about 
nine in the morning, returning about five, and the guests 
at the hotel, eagerly watching. The day we were there 
people fainted, and I was talking to a lady who said 
she would not have missed the experience for a great 
deal; but she was quite sore, and would be glad to sit 
on a soft cushion. At El Tovar you have the best of 
service. The altitude averages 7000 feet, and in sum- 
mer the days are comfortable and the nights cool, and 
if one does not care to stay in the sun, there are plenty 
of shady spots. Yet you could sit along the parapet for 
hours, and always see something new. I would like to 
spend a week or more in the vicinity, as there are many 
fine drives from the hotel, and walking is fine also. El 
Tovar is a long low edifice built of native boulders and 

17 



pine logs brought from Oregon; the width north and 
south is three hundred and twenty-seven feet, and from 
east to west two hundred and eighteen feet, and has the 
appearance of a large country club house. They can ac- 
commodate 250 guests, and their rooms are large and 
comfortable. The drinking water comes from a moun- 
tain spring ninety miles away. There is a broad porch 
where you can sit comfortably and order refreshments. 
The rendezvous is a delightful place, where electric 
lights placed in log squares look very unique, and gray 
Navajo rugs cover the floor. Around the room on the 
shelving repose heads of elk, deer, moose, sheep, and 
buffalo, mingling with curiously shaped and fancy tinted 
Indian jars from the pueblos. The dining-room is 
eighty-nine feet long, by thirty-eight feet wide, arched 
overhead, the roof supported by six huge log trusses, 
which are finished in rough wood, brown as a coffee 
berry. The two end fireplaces are built of gray sand- 
stone. The waitresses are all dressed in white uniforms. 
You may dine with other guests, or have a private din- 
ing-room. The most critical traveller never kicks 
when he sits down to enjoy a dinner served by Fred 
Harvey. Did you know Fred Harvey? If not, your 
education has been sadly neglected. He used to run a 
restaurant, and ran it so well that the Santa Fe folks got 
him to establish a line of restaurants along the road 
from Chicago to California, and also down into Texas. 
Some say that the Santa Fe made Fred Harvey, and 
others that Fred Harvey made the Santa Fe. He is 
dead, but the standard of excellence set can never go 
back. Man like Deity creates his own image. 

18 



THE HARVEY GIRL 

I have seen some splendid paintings in my day 
And I have looked at faultless statuary; 
I've seen the orchard trees abloom in May 
And watched their colors in the shadows vary; 
I have viewed the noblest shrines in Italy 
And gazed upon the richest mosques of Turkey, 
But the fairest of all sights, it seems to me, 
Was a Harvey girl I saw in Albuquerque. 

that pretty Harvey girl was good to see, 
Her presence and her manner made me glad; 
As she heaped things on my plate 

1 kept busy thanking Fate 

For her deftness and the appetite I had. 

I have heard the wind blow softly through the trees, 

I have listened to the robin blithely singing; 

I have heard the mellow sounds float on the breeze 

When far-off matin bells were slowly ringing; 

I have heard great Paderewski pound the ksys ; 

But the pretty Harvey girl, as I'm a sinner, 

Produced the blithest of all melodies 

As she clicked the plates while handing me my dinner. 

S. E. KISER. 

There are more than a hundred sleeping-rooms, and the 
sun penetrates them all at some hour of the day. Every- 
thing looks bright and cheerful at El Tovar. The sleeping- 
rooms have rough sand finished walls and ceiling, tinted 
in buff, nile green and cream colors. There are twelve 
rooms more elaborately decorated with wall papers, and 
furniture of rich pattern, with wilton carpets. It is steam 
heated, electric lighted, and telephone service is quickly 
responded to. In the suite rooms colonial style, mahog- 
any finish is used, in the other rooms, fumed oak, old 
mission style. 

19 



They have twenty large bathrooms. The office is on 
the main floor, where you can buy newspapers, maga- 
zines, postcards, cigars and candy. As you look up you 
may see some friend smiling from the rotunda rail where 
the ladies' lounging-room is located, draped in crimson 
hangings. The music-room is so daintily furnished that 
it is a favorite resort for lovers of music and dancing. 
At a short distance from the hotel is the Hopi house, an 
irregular stone structure plastered with adobe, occupying 
a ground space sixty by ninety feet, three stories high, 
in front of which stood a ladder, by which we had our 
photos taken, also one of Mr. Vincent, which was very 
fine. In the Hopi house the Indians are busy weaving, 
burning pottery, spinning yarn, or making blankets. 
Their rooms are little and low, and floors and walls are 
kept clean. The men make silver ornaments. Elle of 
Canada, the most famous blanket weaver of the Navajos, 
sometimes makes her headquarters at the Grand Canyon. 
There is also a Pomo basket exhibited, the finest of its 
kind in the world. The Navajo Indians are the largest 
of our remaining tribes, there being about twenty thou- 
sand of them on their twenty thousand square mile res- 
ervation. They do not settle in villages, but move their 
huts from place to place, and are so widely scattered 
that you may travel for days and not meet a single In- 
dian, and yet the traveller is constantly seen by the beady 
black eyes of the Navajo, who in hiding watches every 
movement of the white stranger. They are fond of 
games and all kinds of sports. They own thousands of 
ponies, and make their own saddles and bridles, some 
of which are beautifully decorated with silver work. In 
the southern part of Arizona is another tribe, a commu- 

20 



nity of about two thousand, which is run by the women. 
They own all the property, and make proposals of mar- 
riage. They also build the houses, and men live in them 
and do the family dressmaking. These are the Hopi 
tribe, meaning peaceful people, who are very curious. 
The Hopi towns are the oldest continuously inhabited 
cities on the continent. Their little villages are perched 
way up on the cliffs which project into the desert like 
great promontories into the sea, built of stone, in irreg- 
ular pyramid form. They are an agricultural people; 
but their farming is attended with many difficulties. To 
secure a crop it is necessary to plant the seed in the beds 
of dry water courses, as these are the only places where 
sufficient moisture can be found. Storms and cloud- 
bursts are frequent in this barren land, and the water 
channels soon fill to overflowing, destroying in a few 
minutes the labor of months. All their ceremonies, such 
as the snake and flute dance, are dramatized prayers for 
rain, and are among the most interesting religious ob- 
servances of any primitive people in the world. We 
spent a very interesting day at El Tovar, and while 
seated in our train waiting to start at 9 p. m., quite a 
number of our party on the platform were singing, *' My 
mama told me if I was goodie, that she would buy me a 
rubber dollie ; but when I told her I loved a soldier, she 
would not buy me a rubber dollie." Nearly everyone on 
the platform joined in, and it was finally taken up by 
those on the train, which made quite a loud chorus. 

Southern Arizona is not a desert. It is a land of many 
attractions and of strong contrasts; but with a home side 
that will interest you. It is like none of the states, and 
cannot be judged from eastern standpoints. It offers 

21 



much which cannot be seen from a car window. Some 
of the richest lands in the world are here; but have not 
been occupied on account of periodical overflows. The 
great expense of providing for irrigation is being as- 
sumed by the government, and will be charged back to 
the land, and returned in installments for ten years, pay- 
ments beginning after the first delivery of water, which 
will be about $35.00 per acre. There will be no favorit- 
ism, the man above you will not get more than his share, 
nor the man below less. A government official will have 
charge of the distribution. I wonder if he will be square ? 
So few are. 

In communities where irrigation is used, eighty acres 
is considered too large a holding, and forty acres ample 
to support a family. Two of the grandest irrigation 
plans are now being carried out in Arizona. These are 
known as the Yuma Project and the Salt River Project, 
which involve much time and great expense in construc- 
tion. The Yuma dam on the Colorado River is of the 
weir type, such as are in use in India, and is located on 
a river as interesting, if not as famous, as the Nile of 
Egypt, which it resembles. The Salt River dam will 
turn back the combined flow of the Salt River and the 
Verde, forming a reservoir twenty-five miles long, with 
an average width of one and a half miles, and the land 
actually covered by this vast artificial lake was once cul- 
tivated by the cliff dwellers, the outlines of their long- 
abandoned fields being clearly visible when the first white 
farmers came into this secluded valley. The mysterious 
people who built towns and vast houses, and dug great 
canals from which to water the land, left no other record 
of themselves save that they were farmers. No one 



knows how long ago the diff dwellers built their houses 
of solid stone, in the recesses of the cliffs, or why they 
left them suddenly and mysteriously. There are no 
signs of war or destruction, and the traditions of the old- 
est Indian tribes do not tell. There are thousands of the 
ruins, from buildings almost perfect to scattered heaps 
of stone. There are cliff dwellings from which the lad- 
ders of the buildings have long since dropped away, and 
to which no one knows the route. The region inhabited 
by them covers a considerable area in Southern Colo- 
rado and Utah, and Northern New Mexico. It is a 
rough and rugged country; but the richness of the soil 
and mildness of the climate have brought settlers to the 
narrow valleys, so that many of the ruins can be visited. 
There is nothing more interesting or picturesque than 
these quaint ruins. There were also other inhabitants 
before the cliff dwellers living in holes and caves in the 
rocks. They left pictures and pottery behind to show 
they w^re more than ordinary savages; but no clew as 
to when they came, or when or why they left their 
abodes. This whole region is now inhabited by Indian 
tribes and Mexicans, peaceable people devoted to farm- 
ing, but picturesque and interesting. There is no dry 
farming in Arizona. It is all under the irrigation system. 
A stop over of one day at Adamana, on the line of the 
Santa Fe in Arizona, will permit the traveller to view 
one of the few natural wonders of the world. Silicified 
wood is found on the east forks of the Yellowstone, and 
on the high plateaus of Southern Utah. On the old 
stage line from Flagstaff to the Grand Canyon, it was 
one of the pastimes of the traveller to make collections 
of silicified wood, which could be seen in great abun- 

23 



dance along the roadside; but in Apache County, Ari- 
zona, vast deposits of petrified wood from the size of a 
marble to trees more than two hundred feet in length, 
are huddled together in an area of many square miles. 
The forest covers many thousands of acres, in five sepa- 
rate tracts, all easily accessible from Adamana. In the 
first forest the chief object of interest is the natural log 
bridge, which spans a chasm sixty feet wide. A trunk 
of jasper and agate overhanging a tree-fringed pool. In 
the second forest are the twin sisters. In the third for- 
est the tree trunks are larger than elsewhere, and less 
broken. This district contains many whole trees partly 
imbedded in the earth, and are magnificent blocks of 
agate, comprising every tint of the rainbow. The Blue 
forest is noted for the beautiful blue tints of the trees. 
The North Sigillaria forest contains many finely pre- 
served specimens of the carboniferous period, some of 
the tree trunks still standing as they grew. The gen- 
eral scenery here is very picturesque. The Petrified 
Forest may be visited any day in the year, except when 
high water renders the streams temporarily impassable. 
At Tiffany's in New York may be seen a huge slab of 
petrified wood which has been polished. Most persons 
think it is marble or onyx. Few realize that it is a slice 
of a giant tree in a section of our country two thousand 
five hundred miles from the metropolis. It is truly mar- 
velous to look upon millions of tons of glistening petri- 
fied trees. On some of the slopes where they lie huddled 
together, it is as if whole quarries of marble and onyx 
had been dynamited, and the colorings are varied and 
beautiful. You must not expect to see the trees stand- 
ing except in the North Sigillaria forest. They are 

24 



mostly prone upon the ground, in a vast basin, which 
was once the bed of an ancient sea, and in that frame 
of earth may be seen trunks of trees and huge blocks of 
petrified wood set Hke garnets. One may spend a whole 
week looking for specimens, and never tire. All who 
have seen the petrified forest say it is well worth visiting. 
On the morning of July lo it was very warm, and we 
were riding through a desert which seemed nothing but 
sand. About ten o'clock it was much warmer, and by 
noon you could scarcely breathe. It was 125 in the 
shade, and when you put your hand out the window, it 
seemed almost to scorch, yet the train people said they 
never knew it to be so cool when crossing Death's Val- 
ley. Yet they say no one ever dies of sunstroke, because 
the air is so dry. If a tramp should be found on the 
train, the government will not allow him to be put ofT, 
as he would die on the road for want of water. Yet 
along the road at long intervals we would pass a little 
settlement, consisting of two or three adobe houses and 
sheds for the animals to go under. We also passed 
quite a town called Bagdad, where there were a few 
date palms, with little troughs dug all around them, and 
water running in from a pipe, irrigating. The people 
standing around were as brown as Spaniards, and prob- 
ably they were. Our next stop was San Bernardino, 
Cal., arriving there about 3 p. m. As we stopped at the 
station a party of ladies threw all kinds of beautiful 
flowers in the car windows, and as we alighted they 
gave each one of us a bouquet; others had baskets of 
cherries and oranges, which they passed to everyone 
on the train, and some had more than they could carry. 
There were autos trimmed with purple and white pam- 

25 



pas plumes waiting to show us the city; but we were 
about four hours late, and only waited on the station 
platform long enough to have our train switched on 
what is called The Inside Flyer tracks. San Bernardino 
lies in the heart of the valley, and is now becoming 
known as the city of Mineral Springs. It is the foun- 
tain city of Southern California, and draws a pure water 
supply through hundreds of Artesian wells from cav- 
erns far below. It is a business centre of large sawmill 
industry in the mountains, and is surrounded by a rich 
fruit country. The well-known Harlem Hot Springs 
are reached by the Highland Railroad, occupying the 
same station as the lines of the Southern Pacific. The 
population is about 15,000. The two mountain peaks, 
San Bernardino and Grayback, reach an altitude of 12,600 
feet, placing them among the highest in the United 
States. We were very sorry to miss seeing the city, but 
we were due at Redlands, Cal., 1 130, and it was almost 
3 130 when we left San Bernardino. 



26 



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REDLANDS, CAL. 

We reached Redlands about 6 p. m., where carriages 
were in waiting. As soon as we were all ready, the 
whole party were taken up through Canon Crest Park, 
better known as Smiley Heights, and renowned the world 
over for its beauty. There are two hundred acres of 
flower gardens, with an immense number of varieties of 
trees and shrubs besides. The geraniums are three and 
four feet high, some even higher. The views are mag- 
nificent as you wind up and around the hills, catching 
glimpses through the trees, until you come to some level 
spot with a fine open view, when the driver stops for a 
moment so you can take it all in. You look down in the 
valley across to the mountains, and the beautiful homes. 
It is a pretty sight; even though it was the poorest sea- 
son of the year, it was beautiful. There are forty varie- 
ties of eucalyptus trees, twenty of acacias, and fifteen of 
palms. There is also an A. K. Smiley Public Library 
built in the old mission style, set in a fine park, contain- 
ing about 12,000 volumes. It is a gift from A. K. Smi- 
ley, and its material worth alone is $40,000, The Smi- 
ley Bros, have also two beautiful mountain resorts in 
New York State, at Lake Mohonk and Lake Minnew- 
haska, which can be reached by stage from New Palz. 

Lake Mohonk is a very beautiful spot, and has fine 

27 



gardens also. Redlands has magnificent homes, excel- 
lent hotels and boulevards. Many of the handsome pri- 
vate houses are ov^ned by wealthy easterners; but the 
city does not depend on them for support. The fruit 
crop, i9o6-'o7, yielded about 3600 carloads, and the 
orchards are young yet. The city is electric lighted, 
paved with asphalt, and in the business section, hand- 
somely built with brick and stone, no wood being al- 
lowed. Many points of interest in the mountains are 
reached by stage, horseback, or the slow, sure-footed 
burro, to whom no trail is too narrow. In the winter, 
summer camps are located all through the San Bernar- 
dino mountains. Redlands has a population of 10,000, 
with 14,000 acres of magnificent fruits. 



28 



RIVERSIDE, CAL. 

We did not reach Riverside until after 9 p. m._, and 
went immediately to the hotel for dinner. Although 
'dark when we entered the grounds of the Glenwood 
Hotel, it was very prettily lighted. The archway was 
studded with purple and white electric lights, and the 
hotel presented a very romantic picture in its setting of 
magnificent trees and stately palms. 

The beautiful Paseo de las Palms, a promenade seven 
hundred feet long, bordered with graceful palms and 
gorgeous flowers, faces the court. Beyond are the ma- 
jestic snow-capped mountains and the quiet valley. The 
hotel is called the California Mission Hotel. Every 
available cprner that lends a chance of carrying out the 
mission style of architecture has been graced with an 
arch, from which a bell hangs, a mute emblem of early 
California life when the monks lived there. From the 
style of architecture to the furniture and finishing hard- 
ware, no stone was left unturned to make the hotel typi- 
,cal of early California days. It is fireproof throughout, 
steam heated, every room with a bath. There is not a 
door-knob in the building; every door is opened by an 
old-fashioned iron latch. After dinner we had a fine 
automobile ride along beautiful Magnolia Avenue. Be- 
tween the magnolia trees were immense palms, fine pep- 

29 



per and eucalyptus trees. The avenue is a double road- 
way of seven miles, and brilliantly lighted, on which is 
also a fine Indian school with cement walks, power house 
and ice plant. The same ride in daylight must be a 
beautiful sight. The city of Riverside is fifty-eight miles 
from Los Angeles. Its population is 12,000. Its prin- 
cipal business and the basis of its wonderful prosperity 
and wealth is growing and shipping oranges and lemons. 
There are twenty thousand acres of orange groves under 
cultivation in the fertile valley. This land is irrigated 
from artesian wells, the water flowing through fifty miles 
of cemented canals. The city of Riverside is bounded by 
the hills, and covers fifty-six square miles, and every mile 
productive. About thirty-five square miles are under 
irrigation. It owns its electric plant and has power to 
sell. The opera house is one of the finest in the State, 
and the hotels of a high standard. The Y. M. C. A. 
possesses a handsome home. There are many fine churches 
and no saloons. The streets are paved, and it has many 
fine boulevards. A magnificent high school, mission 
style, has just been completed. A new court house has 
recently been built at a cost of $100,000, all paid for. 
Over the old adobe, saved as a portion of the new Glen- 
wood Hotel, are seen the red moss-grown and discolored 
old tiles from the Polar Mission near Temecula, tiles 
made by the Indians under the direction of the Francis- 
can Missionary, Father Peyri, about the time we were 
getting rested from the War of the Revolution. No 
one can quite describe the charm of this hotel, the result 
of years' experience and consummate skill and taste of 
Mr. Frank Miller and his wife. No hotel has a more 
congenial or accommodating host than Mr. Miller. We 

30 



were very sorry not to see Riverside by daylight, but 
made the most of our short stay around the hotel 
grounds. You see we had quite a series of views this 
day. From the heat of Death's Valley to the beautiful 
ride at Redlands, and the nice cool ride at Riverside, 
which certainly made us forget the heat of the forenoon, 
we were tired and ready to go back to our train. A 
great many of us were on the train by 12 o'clock, but 
we did not leave Riverside until 3 a. m. 



31 



I.OS ANGELES 

We arrived at Los Angeles very early Sunday morn- 
ing, July II. In fact much earlier than we had been 
expected, for on arriving at the King Edward Hotel, 
where we were scheduled to locate, the occupants of some 
of the rooms had not yet thought of arising, and the 
proprietor of the cafe had to close his doors, as he had 
not sufficient help to serve us, and any one knows who 
has travelled on a train for four or five days that a 
bath and clean clothes are the first things sought for; 
but as we could not get our room right away we dined 
first, and managed to secure quite a good breakfast, then 
went to our room and made ourselves quite comfortable, 
after which we went to the registration bureau, where we 
received our pins and badges, and telephoned an aunt of 
ours residing at Highland Park that we had arrived. 
She told us to go back to the hotel and wait for her, as 
it would take her half an hour or more to come in town. 
She had left New York seven years previous, and we 
were all eager to meet. When she arrived, after the 
usual greetings, we went out to her home, about half 
an hour's ride on the trolley, then a mile further in a 
carriage. My cousin went back to Los Angeles after 
dinner; but my aunt and I spent the afternoon and re- 
mained all night, and you can imagine what a fine time 

S2 



we had telling all the home news. Her home is a four- 
room bungalow, all improvements and telephone service. 
We spent a very enjoyable day, while the rest of the 
party were seeing the city in autos, all free for the 
Elks and their ladies. We missed the ride ; but we thor- 
oughly enjoyed the quiet country and rest, and from the 
front porch of Aunt Net's house you could see the snow 
mountains in the distance. The fields and hills were 
very dry and brown in places when we were there; but 
she said it was beautiful there in the winter. Monday's 
Los Angeles' Examiner stated that forty-eight special 
trains rolled into town yesterday, bringing twenty-five 
thousand Elks and members of their families, to join in 
the festivities arranged for them. The Los Angeles 
Elks No. 99 were kept busy escorting the incoming 
crowds to their various locations, and I was told Monday 
you could hear bands playing all day long. The streets 
were crowded with Elks either in glittering buttons and 
badges, or the purple and white pendants. While peo- 
ple had to stand in line and wait their turn for the auto 
ride, they were good-natured, and were taken to the 
principal residential section, which the cars do not 
traverse, and all praised Lodge No. 99 highly, who were 
the entertainers. Cars were procured from every avail- 
able quarter for the benefit of the antlered herd. At 
eleven o'clock Sunday night all the Elks' clocks in Pasa- 
dena were stopped, not to be started again until after 
the toast to Our Absent Brothers, on the night of Sun- 
day, July 18. Monday being Pasadena day, most of the 
crowd gathered there. Out at Tournament Park they 
had five thousand pounds of beef roasting in barbecue pits. 
Ten thousand orders of beans were put in Boston pots 

S8 



and turned out hot. A drayload of coffee and sugar 
were taken to the park, and every bake shop in Pasadena 
worked overtime to produce fifteen thousand loaves of 
bread for sandwiches, just for the Elks and their friends, 
all free. Beginning at eleven o'clock a. m. all hands 
were served with delicious beef, hot beans, bread and 
coffee. Tables under the shade of immense live oak 
trees were provided near at hand, where the guests ate 
their lunch. A tap on the judges' gong started the car- 
nival of sports at one-thirty, which consisted of Roman 
chariot races, the burro chariot burlesque, the wild west 
stage hold-up, and the push ball game between the Circle 
Stars and the Black Cross teams. We did not stay to 
see it all, and on our way back to Los Angeles we visited 
the Cawston Ostrich Farm. The first sight is one of 
semi-tropical beauty. Palm trees, rose bowers, and sea- 
sonable flowers greet the eye. The entrance is through 
the salesroom, where can be seen very beautiful plumes 
and boas, considered the finest in the world. Outside is 
the farm where at the time we were there they had one 
hundred and fifty birds. It is necessary to keep the birds 
in corrals, and away from the public, as they are fond 
of anything that glitters, and would endeavor to steal 
it from the visitor. Occasionally one becomes angry, 
and in that condition is very dangerous. Another pur- 
pose of the corrals is to separate the different flocks. 
The chicks are kept by themselves, and for the first few 
days are fed on nothing but gravel; as they grow they 
are transferred to different corrals, and after mating are 
given corrals by themselves, where they can nest without 
interference. The male bird is very dark brown, and 
usually sits upon the nest at night. The hen birds are 

34 



gray, and sit during the day because their plumage is so 
nearly the color of the surrounding ground. Ostriches 
are peculiar in their habits. They will swallow gimlets, 
lighted pipes, nails, bits of jewelry and glass, and almost 
anything that comes in their way. The guide threw three 
oranges in succession to an ostrich; he caught them all, 
and you could see them all going down his long neck 
whole. On plucking day, one sees a big feathery os- 
trich driven into a corner by several men and a hood 
placed over .his head. The matured feathers are then 
selected and cut, leaving about an inch of the quill, which 
after a time falls out. The operation is entirely painless. 
Sometimes a man will climb upon an ostrich's back when 
it is released, and be carried at a tremendous zigzag pace 
around the corral. By careful, regular feeding and 
proper breeding, Mr. Cawston has developed the finest 
birds on earth. Opposite the farm is the Indian Crafts 
exhibition, where the Indian is seen as in his native wilds, 
and the savages give an exhibition of their native songs 
and dances well worth seeing. We returned to the city 
and visited a couple of the department stores, went back 
to the hotel for dinner, then out again to see the illu- 
minations. For more than a mile the festoons of purple 
and white lights gleamed on each of the three principal 
downtown streets — Broadway, Spring, and Main. From 
the front and sides of business houses, hotels, theatres, 
office buildings, and in truth, every structure along the 
three thoroughfares, other lights were shining, aiding in 
the general display without in the least breaking the 
ensemble effect of the festooned lanterns. The lamp- 
posts were all decorated with waving palm leaves. From 
the court house glittered " Hello, Bill." The street illu- 

S5 



minations were to continue until the last visiting Elk 
left the city. The display is to remain one of the fea- 
tures of the big convention. The streets were too 
crowded for comfort, and at nine-thirty we went back 
to the hotel and had a good night's rest. 

Tuesday morning most of our party had the pleasure 
of taking the Tilton Trolley Trip. The cars leave 
promptly at nine and nine-thirty every day from the 
Pacific Electric depot, and run through busy Main 
Street to Los Angeles Street, the heart of what was for- 
merly the business centre of Los Angeles, but is now 
mostly wholesale houses, then out through the north- 
western part of the city, where there are pretty villas 
surrounded by trees and plenty of ground. Out beyond 
the business centre, we come to the private way of the 
Pacific Electric, known as the Pasadena Short Line, and 
where an average speed of forty miles an hour is main- 
tained, until we come to Scheutzen Park, just beyond the 
city limits, which is quite a German resort. We next 
pass the Sierra Vista Junction, with magnificent views of 
the mountains, and the orange groves and rose-hedged 
highways reaching out toward Pasadena in an almost un- 
broken chain. Pasadena, that city which wealth and 
refinement have made a seeming paradise of verdure and 
lovely homes with many tourist hotels that have a world- 
wide reputation. It is a city of 25,000 population, and 
as the car passed through the principal streets, one 
notices frorn the absence of saloons that the white rib- 
bons are in control. We turn south again, through 
Colorado Street, lined by homes of many wealthy and 
well-known men, passing orange groves to Oak Knoll, 
and Hotel Wentworth, at the head of the valley, covered 

36 



with orange groves as far as the eye can reach, and to 
Huntington Drive, the finest boulevard in that section 
of the country. We travel rapidly over the country to 
the sleepy old Spanish town of San Gabriel, and one can 
scarcely realize that there can be such a complete change 
of scene so short a distance from the busy metropolis. 
The old mission is very picturesque and was founded in 
1 77 1 by the Franciscan Fathers, the fourth oldest mis- 
sion in the country, and some of the vestments in the 
mission were one hundred and thirty-five years old, made 
of silk, elaborately trimmed with gold braid. They still 
have service every Sunday, with a small number of com- 
municants compared to the olden days. The grape- 
vine in the mission grounds is the largest in the world. 
It covers nearly five thousand square feet, is over five 
feet in circumference, and its roots extend more than two 
hundred feet in every direction. It is composed of one 
root and three branches, and in the early days was known 
as Er Paron de la Trinidad, meaning Trinity Vine, three 
persons in one. It never receives irrigation or cultiva- 
tion, and owing to these facts and dense foliage the 
grapes are small ; but the crop is abundant. The leaves, 
some of which measure twelve inches across, are used 
by natives for fever and headaches. It is the custom of 
all parties taking this ride, to sit or stand directly in 
front of the mission and have their photos taken, which 
are ready on returning in the afternoon. The next stop 
is the Cawston Ostrich farm, free to all on the Tilton 
Trolley Trip. We had visited there on Monday, so 
remained in the car, and waited until the rest of the 
party came back. 

From this point we are en route to the beaches, passing 

87 



through the metropolis over the route taken on our out- 
ward journey, to the four-track hne of the greatest trol- 
ley system in America, fully protected by Safety Block 
Signals, direct to the Pacific Ocean, a run of thirty-three 
miles, and how we did go. Alfter the road leaves the 
busy city tow^ard the beaches, we pass by gardens and 
orchards to the wide reaches of farming and grazing 
lands, past the busy dairying centre of Compton, over 
what was once the broad acres of the old Dominques 
Ranch, with its high bluffs on the right where the line 
of San Pedro diverges, marking the scene of the last 
encounters between the American and Mexican forces, 
over the long trestle and bridge thrown across Bixby's 
slough, and then with Signal Hill, 364 feet high, to 
the left, down to the water front. We enjoyed the 
morning's ride immensely; but was glad to go to the 
hotel for dinner, and being among the first served man- 
aged to get a fairly good dinner; but those who came 
later made all sorts of complaints, and a great many 
dined elsewhere. After dinner we went down to the 
beach, where they have a pleasure pier and auditorium 
that cost $100,000, and is built with two decks. It has 
a large sun parlor and dancing pavilion on the outer end 
over the ocean, and Long Beach is called the Atlantic 
City of the Pacific Coast. We spent two hours here, 
then back to the cars, and on our way back along the 
ocean front. The water of the Pacific is very change- 
able, sometimes it looks bright green, then a deep blue, 
and is very calm. We spent a glorious day, and no one 
should miss the Tilton Trolley Trip who goes to Los 
Angeles — one hundred miles for one dollar, returning 
to Los Angeles about 6 p. m. Tuesday evening we took 

ss 



in the Belasco Theatre, and New Jersey received many a 
hard hit from those on the stage. Just think of it, we 
had to go way to Los Angeles to see a play entitled, " A 
Day and a Night in New York." All the Los Angeles 
theatres were free to the Elks and their friends Tuesday 
and Wednesday evenings, and the houses were all 
crowded. So ended our third day at Los Angeles. 



59 



CATALINA ISLAND 

Wednesday morning some of the party went to Cata- 
lina Island, and some to Mount Lowe. We left the 
Pacific Electric Depot about 9 a. m., reaching the San 
Pedro wharf in about an hour, where we boarded the 
steamer that takes us to Catalina Island. The steamer 
was so crowded that a great many of us had to stand 
all the way out to the island, which ,was more than two 
hours' sailing. It was very calm, the boat rocked a 
little bit once. It was a fine sail, and even though stand- 
ing it was interesting to watch the changes in the water, 
sometimes blue, then green, and also interesting to watch 
the different classes of humanity, all nationalities. On 
arriving at Avalon we immediately made our way to the 
pier for the glass-bottom boat; and it was well we did, 
for when we came back the pier was crowded, and I 
doubt if everyone was allowed the privilege of seeing 
the wonderful sights at the bottom of the bay. M. 
Huret, a French editor, describes Santa Catalina quite 
eloquently. After praising the trip across to the Island, 
he describes the marine gardens. Floating on the green 
and blue water in the glass bottom boats, one sees the 
goings and comings of aquatic life. The boatman names 
to you the marine plants and the fish, and tells you 
the different depths. One is astounded, one ques- 

40 



tions, one exclaims ! Here are shell encrusted rocks, red, 
green, and goldfish, zigzagging leisurely among the wav- 
ing foliage, the seaweed gracefully balancing with the tide. 
On the clear bottom the sea throws beautiful reflections; 
here are real trees with long branches, waving as on 
land by a tempest, great fish of all shapes appear, as in 
an artificial aquarium, the starfish shine in the shadows 
of the rocks ; then more luxuriant foliage, with branches 
bearing clusters of fruit resembling olives. One would 
think these were fertile fields suddenly submerged by a 
tempest. Leaning over the transparencies in the bottom 
of the boats, people go into ecstasies, and is it any won- 
der, for every word of this is true. I saw it all. There 
are divers on the boats who go under the boats and you 
can see them pick up the shells from the bottom, and 
bring them up to the passengers to purchase; some of 
the pearl colorings are very beautiful. You can also take 
a marine automobile, one of the specially designed Cata- 
lina launches, and run down to the sea lion rookery and 
photograph it, or to Moonstone Beach, where the beauti- 
ful gems of chalcedony are found. There is no trip exactly 
like it in the world. The boating and bathing is unex- 
celled. When we were making fast to the dock, passen- 
gers on our steamer threw coins in the water to the boys 
who were in bathing, the water being so clear, you could 
see the coins. A remarkable display is made in glass 
tanks of living plants and animals of Avalon Bay. This 
exhibition is one of the most interesting features of the 
Island, and furnishes a rare opportunity for the study 
of marine life. The town of Avalon, with its picturesque 
cottages and homes on the hillsides, is built on a beauti- 
ful half -moon shaped bay, with fleets of boats and yachts 

41 



of all sizes moored here and there. Santa Catalina Is- 
land has perfect sanitary regulations, the whole under 
the supervision of a resident physician and health offi- 
cers. No locality in the United States has such con- 
venience for campers, nor can any other place show 
such an attractive picture of cozy canvas habitations. 
Every effort is made to cater to the comfort and pleasure 
of campers. The streets are clean and sprinkled, and 
all garbage removed from the premises daily. It is an 
island twenty-two miles long, a park in the Pacific Ocean ; 
a mountain range by the sea, a bit of the world by itself, 
which in its climate, natural beauties and opportunities 
for sport comes as near perfection as one can find. It 
abounds in beautiful lofty mountains, deep gorges, stu- 
pendous rock cliffs and precipices. Its south and west 
coast has the surf and a bracing climate. Its north and 
east is a region of calms, little bays with glass-like sur- 
faces reflecting the rocks and mountains. It is also the 
fashionable resort of Southern California, and is patron- 
ized equally by those who wish to escape the duties of 
fashionable life. There are cottages, shops, hotels, and 
boarding-houses. The Metropole, the principal hotel, 
up-to-date in every respect, is situated directly on the bay. 
It has every comfort, a beautiful ballroom and stage, fine 
parlors, and rooms with all the modern conveniences. 
About twelve miles from Avalon are quarries in opera- 
tion, of a fine green serpentine stone which is shipped to 
Banning Company's works and manufactured into man- 
tels, bases, switch-boards, and many other useful and or- 
namental articles. The ancient inhabitants used this stone 
for household vessels and implements, and its durability 
is demonstrated by the work in this material which the 

42 



Indians left on the island, possibly hundreds of years ago, 
and which are being continually discovered. We spent 
about four hours at Catalina Island looking at curios, 
sitting on the beach, watching the bathers, and taking in 
everything worth seeing. Some of us started for the 
steamer quite early, to procure a seat, as we did not favor 
the idea of standing going back. 

We managed to locate on the first deck by the railing 
on the sunny side, and as there was quite a stiff breeze 
blowing the sun's rays felt very comfortable. We saw 
a great many flying fish, they would dart out of the 
water quickly, and fly the length of the steamer. We 
enjoyed the sail immensely, and on our arrival at San 
Pedro had to wait about twenty minutes for our car to 
return to Los Angeles. In the meantime I was looking 
at a long breakwater, and wondering what it was. I 
heard afterward that the government is expending mil- 
lions of dollars in creating a free harbor. This means 
a breakwater eight hundred feet long and fourteen feet 
above water at low tide, with a base one hundred and 
ninety feet wide, and twenty feet across the top. As the 
water is about fifty feet deep, this engineering work sets 
up a wall sixty-four feet high, against which the water 
will break. This inner harbor will be dredged, and 
have an area of about twelve hundred acres and a depth 
of twenty-five feet. San Pedro is feeling the results 
of this improvement of the port and is growing rapidly. 
It has taken its place among the prosperous ports of the 
Pacific Coast. 



43 



MOUNT LOWE 

The trip up Mt. Lowe is made by way of the Pacific 
Electric, forming an interesting system of mountain rail- 
way, which extends to Alpine Tavern at a height of about 
five thousand feet. One thousand feet higher up is 
Mt. Lowe, reached by bridle-path, from which_can be 
seen the blue ranges in Mexico, the twin peaks of Cata- 
lina Island, and midway the plains, dotted with orange 
and lemon groves, cities and hamlets, a very pleasing and 
impressive sight. It is a trip of wonderful views, 
through cafions and pine forests. Mt. Wilson also is 
reached by trail, and affords as fine a view as Mt. Lowe, 
and about the same height. There is a fine camp at Mt. 
Wilson, rates from five dollars a week up. The trip 
to Mt. Lowe from Los Angeles can be made in a few 
hours, leaving after luncheon, and back to the city for 
an early dinner. Wednesday evening my aunt came in 
from Highland Park, and spent the night with us at the 
hotel, so as to be in town early in the morning for the 
parade. We walked around town for a while, then came 
back to the hotel, went to our room, and had a real nice 
family chat, and retired. About 9 a. m. Thursday morn- 
ing we started out leisurely along Spring Street till we 
came to Bamberger's large department store, opposite 
which there was a grand stand, where we had purchased 

44 



seats a few days previous at the rate of two dollars each. 
We had the second row, finely located, and were having 
great sport watching people passing by and hearing 
funny sayings. It was very warm, and the sun shone 
brightly. A great many people had bought the Elks' 
Parasol, purple and white stripes with " Los Angeles, 
1909," around the edge, to protect them from the sun; 
but as soon as the parade was in sight, some one called 
out, put down all parasols, and I am glad to say they all 
obeyed promptly. The parade, which has always been 
one of the leading features of the Grand Lodge meetings, 
was one of the finest ever witnessed. The numerous 
herds under the direction of Brother Raymond Benjamin, 
of Napa, California, began moving at 10 a. m., headed 
by Chief of Police Edward Dishman, and a platoon of 
his finest on horseback, who kept the multitudes back on 
the sidewalks. With an inspiring march, the great brass 
band of Los Angeles Lodge No. 99, B. P. O. E., number- 
ing eighty pieces, headed by the liveliest drum major on 
earth, marched past and took up a position above the 
stand, opening in the centre while the police automobiles 
and carriages got away, after leaving the guests at the 
stand. The Grand Lodge oflficers, headed by Grand Ex- 
alted Ruler Holland, and closely followed by Grand Ex- 
alted Ruler-elect Sammis, arrived in two four-horse lan- 
daus, and were escorted to the reviewing stand by Com- 
mittee, John G. Mott and D. C. Casselman. Then came 
the Grand Lodge ofScers and past rulers and Mayor Alex- 
ander. Meanwhile the crack drill corps of No. 99 
maneuvered so as to form in line below the stand, between 
which the exalted guests drove to their places. Later 
the white uniforms found seats on the stand, and cheered 

45 



their marching brothers. New York Lodge No. i, com- 
posed of a delegation of twenty, headed the long column 
of marchers, wearing black and red hat bands, carrying 
plumes and flags. Philadelphia No. 2 was preceded by 
a carriage carrying its great banner. The representa- 
tives of this lodge wore white suits, with green lapels, 
green stripes, and white and green-banded um- 
brellas that they twirled as they marched, followed 
by two tallyhos of smiling women with their green 
parasols and black-banded yellow straw hats. San 
Francisco and San Mateo brought up the finale of 
this division, and were dressed in gray suits and 
white shoes, carrying poppy sun-shades, giving an en- 
semble that brought bursts of cheers. Olympic Club 
athletes in *' gym." suits, marched with them. Cincin- 
nati led the third division of the march. There was a 
carriage of officials, the Herrmann band, and then the 
Hermann marchers led by the only " Garry " himself. 
They were dressed in golf suits, red jackets, gray caps, 
green stockings, gray knickerbockers, and carried golf 
"putters" at salute. Green collars and cuffs added 
splendor to the brilliant coats. Three automobile floats 
followed the delegation. In bowers of hydrangeas and 
beneath festoons of asparagus ferns, and preceded by 
Elk's head "bowsprits," rosy-cheeked women beamed 
from beneath their rose-bordered straw hats. Sacra- 
mento Lodge was preceded by a band, and the repre- 
sentatives wore gray suits, gray crush hats, carried pur- 
ple pennants, and their arms were girded by purple and 
the number of their lodge. Boston No. lo was note- 
worthy. The men wore colonial costumes, three-cor- 
nered hats, powdered wigs, blue jackets, yellow vests and 

46 



breeches and black leggings, and carried rifles to which 
American flags had been attached. Behind them came 
the Boston monument represented on a float and guarded 
by armed sentries ; two tallyhos filled with colonial dames, 
in powdered wig and patches, followed. Pittsburg No. 
1 1 wore gray suits, and purple hat-bands. Denver pro- 
duced one of the beauties of the day. The men of No. 
17 were neatly dressed in white, carried white parasols 
festooned together with white feathery streamers, and 
a white canopied float bore white-robed girls. A Lone 
Buck from Indianapolis No. 13 followed. No band pre- 
ceded him; but he had a standard bearer and he paced 
along right smartly in a tuxedo and opera hat. The 
New Orleans band played " Dixie," and hosts from the 
Southland cheered. Half -finished Panamas, bamboo 
canes, white shirts and duck trousers distinguished this 
delegation. Detroit, where its representatives say that 
life is worth living, and where the Elks are going to 
herd next year, followed, its band leading. The De- 
troit drill team, in its neat military suits of slate-gray 
coat, white trousers and shoes, executed a short series of 
formations in front of the reviewing stand that were as 
pleasing to the eye as they must have been to the grand 
oflicers who received the honor. San Diego " Bills " 
came along on their sea legs. They wore duck suits, 
yachting caps, and they shov/ed their aversion to land 
by singing " How Dry I Am," or perhaps they meant 
something else. Salt Lake Elks rode in tallyhos, and 
must have been to conventions before, and announced 
themselves this way, M-O-R-M-O-N-S — Mormons! 
There were thirty men and three women in the gather- 
ing. Chillicothe, Ohio, was represented by sister Elks. 

47 



The pretty women rode in a tallyho and wore blue mili- 
tary jackets and caps — one of the neatest features of the 
day. Pueblo No. 90 had a goodly number of representa- 
tives, including the man with the multitudinous badges ; 
he had badges all over his coat, front and back, as close 
as they could be pinned. St. Paul marched in the same 
division. Oakland No. 171 had a spectacular presenta- 
tion in its trumpeters. Dressed in costumes of red, 
green, and gold, the esquires sounded their horns in 
front of the reviewing party, while the prize Oakland 
drill team, in their natty white uniforms, marched past 
with their hats held at salute. The members of the dele- 
gation followed with their hats on their chests and bear- 
ing over their left shoulders garlands of oak, typical of 
the name of their city. Following were two dignified 
weary and thirsty Kentucky "colonels." It was notice- 
able that when the parade disbanded at First Street these 
'' Kaintuckians " did not countermarch. Scranton Elks 
wore gray suits, crush hats, and carried purple umbrellas. 
Spokane had a spectacle much similar to that of Boston. 
In honor of George Washington they were in colonial 
costume, were preceded by a fife and drum corps, of 
which the fifer was wounded and bandaged, and dragged 
minute guns that were fired along the line of march. 
Steubenville No. 31 had a one-man parade. He wore a 
fringed leather coat and looked like a cross between a 
sofa pillow and a souvenir post card. He sang, " I Don't 
Care," and acted the part. There were hundreds of 
Elks' teeth attached to his elkskin jacket. "Just Bill 
Elk from Pendleton, Oregon," was G. J. Ferguson, who 
was disguised as a Umatilla chief, in war bonnet and 
paint. Dr. P. T. Rucker, Aspinwall, Colo., wore one 

48 



hundred and thirty-seven ribbon streamers from his coat 
to his shoe tops, and acted Hke a hula hula dancer from 
Hawaii. Twenty-seven men from Bakersfield wore 
brown suits, white straw hats, and carried a white lamb 
or kid as a mascot. Baker City, Ore., lost no oppor- 
tunity to tell of its natural and commercial advantages. 
They were placarded all over the big brass drum of their 
band. The Portland Lodge was dressed in white suits 
with purple lapels, cuffs, and pockets, had white and 
purple hats and twirled white and purple umbrellas. 
Fresno Lodge had dark coats, white soft hats, white 
trousers, and were preceded by a mastiff to which elk 
horns had been attached. The dog did not seem to enter 
into the spirit of the occasion. He acted like there was a 
flea just at the base of his proud antlers. Tucson mem- 
bers rode in one carriage. Wallace, Idaho, followed. 
New Berne had an auto. Maple City No. 772 also had 
a machine. Santa Barbara, with a monster representa- 
tion garbed as monks, and carrying great palm-leaf fans, 
won the crowd at once. A! floral mission tower with 
chimes drawn by four white horses, with a beautiful 
young woman as bell-ringer, with four candles burning 
at the corners, and the whole banked in ferns and lilies 
aroused great enthusiasm. The twenty Honolulu boys, 
in their white suits, and with their bronzed faces, were 
cheered heartily, as later were the Manila men in their 
great broad-brimmed fancy fibre hats. Tlecognition was 
extended them for crossing the water to join in the fes- 
tivities. Butte, Mont., headed the ninth division, with 
the famous Boston Montana band, the Manila men fol- 
lowing. Santa Anna came along like a car full of fruit. 
The delegation was rotundly masqueraded as oranges, 

49 



loose green pantaloons giving the effect of stems and 
their yellow top pieces closing the " fruit " when they 
pulled down their heads. The ensemble was startling 
when the marchers sat down with their legs extended 
and the orange sealed. Hey, you, was the greeting to 
one orange with a greenish tinge; get back where you 
belong ; you are picked too soon. A manster orange float 
was part of the Santa Anna display. Held on four sets of 
antlers, with green leaves, and wax orange blossoms for a 
base, the huge orange had been cut into windows from 
which peeped the faces of young women. Pasadena Lodge 
No. (yy2 announced through its band that " It Looks 
Like a Large Night To-night." The costumes were 
dark coat, straw hat and white trousers. Then came 
Brighton, N. J. A one-man parade and drill corps. 
Nothing was needed but a band. Flanked on either side 
by standard bearers, and proudly shaking hands with 
himself, as he bowed from right to left, Frank F. Wal- 
lace drew up in solid formation in front of the reviewing 
stand, carefully deposited his hat on the street car tracks 
and ordered himself to come to '' Attenshun." He was 
general, colonel, major, captain, lieutenant, sergeant, and 
private of the most exclusive drill team ever staged here 
or abroad. His orders were clear and precise, and the 
execution was letter perfect. He kept absolute time and 
to every maneuver he " moved as one man." As a 
" squad " he carried the honor of the day. " The 
Orange Belt " advertised in a body. There was a huge 
triangular streamer and then the delegations and bands 
from Redlands, Riverside, San Bernardino and Pomona. 
The men carried orange-colored umbrellas, with hat 
bands and neckties of the same color. The members 

50 



of these lodges stretched for blocks down the street. 
At this point there was shown one touch of pathos — the 
stalwart figure of the oldest living Elk — Charles Clusker, 
of San Bernardino Lodge, who is ninety-nine years and 
four months old. He rode in a carriage, but wanted to 
walk. He was hailed everywhere with honors, and 
smilingly waved back his greetings. When Long Beach 
Lodge No. 888 went down Broadway it encountered an 
empty beer bottle, around which hundreds of marchers 
had passed. Long Beach is always hopeful, so the 
marchers assembled around the bottle, and tried to fan 
it into life; but there was nothing doing. They wore 
purple sashes, yachting caps, and carried fans. Fitch- 
burg, Mass., had one delegate. He was a real rube, and 
rather than take chances, he carried his carpet-bag with 
him. Iowa made itself proud with its Fifty-fourth Regi- 
ment band. The delegates carried corn cobs at their 
belts, and at the reviewing stand tossed them into the 
box occupied by Mr. Sammis. Santa Monica Lodge 
wore white flannel suits, crush hats, and carried canes 
and flags. Pawtucket, R. L, had two standard bearers, 
and on a monster clam had printed this testimonial : " I 
love my home, but OH you Los Angeles." Arizona 
composed the twelfth division in greater part. The In- 
dian band furnished the music. They wore dove-col- 
ored suits and hats. Some of them were not in cos- 
tume. They came at the rear and were placarded as 
"Arizona's Undressed Kids." Sunbury, Pa., delegates 
rode in an automobile. San Pedro delegates were neat 
in sailors' costumes and caps, with naval pennants on 
canes. Berkeley's representatives had caps and gowns 
as characteristic suits. They gave college yells that 

51 



sounded like three cheers in a tiddly-wink's game, and 
three lusty shouts for Justice Harry Melvin. Alameda 
Lodge was preceded by a one-piece band. This orches- 
tra played on a dilapidated tin dish pan with an empty 
beer bottle. The delegates carried white umbrellas. 
Goldfield men were in miners' costumes. Southern 
Nevada sent a float representing a stamping mill. Wal- 
senburg, Colo., Bills wore a real elk garbhead and horns. 
San Rafael members were in tallyhos. Then came the 
awarding of prizes, Montana Band at head of winners. 

For the best appearing Lodge Denver first prize, Cin- 
cinnati second, and Portland third. For the most novel 
uniforms, Cincinnati first, Detroit second, Boston third. 

To Montana was given the prize for the most magnifi- 
cent banner. The parade was two and a half hours in 
passing, and seven and one-half miles long. The num- 
ber of men actually in line was given as twenty thou- 
sand, and about two hundred thousand spectators. The 
principal business houses were closed for three hours, 
and I am sure everyone enjoyed the great parade. There 
was a great rush for restaurants when it was all over; 
but being in such previous rushes, we sauntered leisurely 
back to our hotel, rested awhile, then had plenty of room 
to dine. In the evening was the great Electrical parade, 
which, though shorter, was more spectacular than the 
morning parade, and drew much larger crowds, as most 
of the business places were closed. There were fifteen 
magnificent floats, borne on hidden electric flat cars ac- 
companied by bands. The floats with the attendants were 
formed in line promptly at 8 o'clock. As the trolleys 
were raised, just at dark, the scene was one magnificent 
line of light. The escorts, mounted, ranged alongside, 

52 



and the first float moved forward to Main Street, turned 
and met the police platoon and the Vaquero Club Riders. 
Chief Dishman, with Captain Bradish on the left and 
Captain Dixon on the right, led the police department. 
All were mounted, and their fine appearance drew con- 
siderable applause from the watching thousands. Fol- 
lowing the police came Headquarters Band, No. i, com- 
posed of forty-five pieces. Fifty riders from the Va- 
quero Club followed. The men were costumed in gay 
uniforms and rode five abreast on magnificent steeds. 
Sheriff Hammel was the most pronounced figure in the 
gala crowd. They preceded the first float in the parade, 
the Elk. A large elk of white semi-transparent material 
occupied the entire float. The spreading antlers were 
outlined with hundreds of small incandescent lights. 
Two gleaming lights flashed in the eyes. The barge 
was handsomely decorated in green, while around the 
side were electric roses of many colors. This to the 
spectators was the masterpiece. Next came the Letter 
Carriers' Band, followed by the Elk emblem barge. 
Arising from a mass of filmy decoration was a huge 
clock with hands upon the hour of eleven. From each 
side just below the clock was an elk's head. The out- 
lines were traced with the small lights. Surrounding all 
were hundreds of amber-colored lights clustered into 
flowers. At the forward end of the float were the words, 
" The faults of our brothers we trace in the sands," 
while on the rear one read, " Their virtues are traced in 
the tablets of love and memory." The emblem was fol- 
lowed by the Hayseed Band. Next came a huge float 
with a large green crocodile, extending the entire length 
of the barge. Its large mouth was open wide, disclosing 

53 



a myriad of lights. High upon its back sat the band in 
various garb with instruments of more various har- 
mony. The float was decorated with red and white 
Hghts. The trick horse occupied the next position in 
Hne, and actually performed, jumping continually 
through a large hoop suspended over the barge. The 
horse was made of white material outlined with lights. 
The float was decorated witth yellow roses, cleverly 
fashioned from the lights. Headquarters Band, No. 2, 
followed, after which came the clown elephant. Its huge 
trunk outlined with double rows of small incandescents, 
swung to and fro. Upon the head was a clown cap. 
The eyes gleamed through two blue globes. The barge 
was gayly decorated with red roses which clustered over 
the sides. Next came Beauty and the Octopus. This 
was a beautifully lighted float, with flowing streamers 
and canopies of white, under which were seated the at- 
tendants, all in costume. One of them was the Ten- 
Thousand-Dollar Beauty, but no two persons were found 
who were able to make a decision as to which one was 
meant, so nearly did they all fit the title of the barge. 
The dread Octopus was a many-armed monster outlined 
with white light, which shone upon the green sides with 
startling effect. From each side gleamed an eye of clus- 
tered lights. The long arms of the octopus were en- 
twined around the side of the float, while the pretty girl 
attendants sat there unconcerned. Preceded by the Col- 
ton Band, the barge of the Wonderful Giraffes fol- 
lowed. It was the largest float in the procession, and 
was cleverly manipulated by the pretty young women at- 
tendants. The two giraffes were placed in the rear of 
the float, and their long necks studded by colored lights 

54 



extended twenty feet to the front of the float. The huge 
illuminated papier mache animals were ridden by four 
young women, who held guiding reins which were stud- 
ded with lights, and extended to the lighted bits in the 
mouths of the giraffes. The young women who rode 
the animals were able, by means of an extended cord, to 
open the mouths of the giraffes, permitting the specta- 
tors to gaze into the long neck, which was lighted with 
purple shaded lights. On the base of the float was a 
prettily arranged garden where four young women were 
seated. Next came Mary with her little lamb, which 
was much larger than she. A pasture of green studded 
by purple lights. The lamb was white, its eyes were 
studs of purple, and its tail, which wagged almost con- 
tinuously, was decorated with purple shaded lights. A 
number of young women were seated on the float, four 
of whom sat in flower pedestals, and only their pretty 
faces could be seen. All of the floats had quite a num- 
ber of pretty girls on them. The Wild Man from Borneo 
was a surprise to everybody, all expecting to see a fierce 
wild character. Instead the " Wild Man " was so peace- 
able that the young women who rode on the barge with 
him called him a dead one. His mouth, which was well 
filled with jagged teeth, opened spasmodically. Jenner's 
Band followed with the Gay Performing Bear behind. 
Holding a telephone receiver in his paw, he looked quite 
amusing, as he smiled and winked at the Queen of Po- 
land. The bear and the snowfield float on which he 
stood were decorated with flake-like paper, and his pur- 
ple ears wagged continually. A young woman seated 
on a throne of snow in the front of the barge held a 
telephone receiver with which she communicateii with 

55 



the bear. At her feet in a snow bank decorated with 
white lights sat eight young women, who threw purple 
flowers as they passed along. The Queen of Hearts 
was seated on a throne made of interwoven hearts, illu- 
minated by purple lights. The throne was shaded by a 
bower made of hearts, and in the centre of each card a 
purple light was placed. At her feet were her attend- 
ants, seated in a miniature garden, some of their faces 
peeping out of huge sunflowers. 

Following the Queen of Hearts came the terrible Sea 
Serpent. The head of the serpent was studded with red 
and the teeth were representd by yellow lights. The 
monster's head was raised high above the base of the 
barge, and as it wove its way through the streets, chil- 
dren cried out in horror and women shuddered ner- 
vously. The float was decorated in blue, with a touch 
here and there of white to represent the crest of the 
ocean wave. A Dime Museum with clowns and wild 
men and snake charmers was exhibited in one of the 
largest barges which had been arranged for the electri- 
cal display. Every detail of a museum was represented. 
The last display represented the actual eccentricities of 
*' Maud." Maud, the mule, harnessed but not hitched, 
was placed in the centre of the float. Si, the owner, 
stood near and soothingly rubbed Maud with a curry- 
comb. It was then that Maud displayed her eccentrici- 
ties, and Si was kicked back to the tree in the back- 
ground. So repeatedly was Si kicked back against the 
tree that finally Samantha, the wife of Si, offered to at- 
tempt to soothe Maud. So ended our fifth and last day 
at Los Angeles. During the past thirty years Los An- 
geles has grown from a population of ii,ooo in 1880 to 

56 



102,480 by the census of 1900. The present population 
310,000. The original name of the town of Los An- 
geles, of giving religious names to places as was the 
custom of the Latin Races, was Nuestra Senora de Los 
Angels, meaning " Our Lady, the Queen of the Angels." 
This has been shortened by the practical Yankees to Los 
Angeles. Los Angeles was founded on September 4, 
1 78 1, by a small band of colonists, who had been re- 
cruited in the Mexican States of Sinaloa and Sonora, 
and brought here under command of a government offi- 
cer, to found an agricultural colony, for the purpose of 
raising produce for the soldiers at the presidios. The 
first census of the little city, taken in August, 1790, gave 
the total population at 141. They were a mixed class, 
composed of one European, seventy-two Spanish-Ameri- 
cans, seven Indians, twenty-two mulattoes, and thirty- 
nine Mestizos. As recently as 1831, fifty years after the 
founding of the town, the population was only 770. On 
November 9, 1885, the last spike was driven in the At- 
lantic and Pacific Railway, at the Cajon Pass, thus com- 
pleting a new overland route from the Atlantic to the 
Pacific. From that time the growth of the city was very 
rapid. Considering that twenty years ago it had not a 
single paved street, Los Angeles has made remarkable 
progress. There are now over 450 miles of graded and 
graveled streets, 6^ miles of paved streets, and 320 miles 
of sewer. At night Los Angeles presents a brilliant ap- 
pearance. It was the first city in the United States to 
entirely abandon gas for street lighting, and replace it 
by electricity. Many of the lamps are on high masts. 
That Los Angeles is, and will always remain, the com- 
mercial metropolis of Southern California, admits of no 

57 



doubt. Every variety of location for a residence may be 
found within the city Hmits. The city Hes about mid- 
way between the Sierra Madre range of mountains and 
the ocean, and about 300 feet above the sea level. Los 
Angeles River, which is almost devoid of water during 
the summer, but is sometimes transformed into a torrent 
for a few days in winter, runs through the city from 
north to south. There are a dozen public parks within 
the city limits, aggregating over six hundred acres. Ely- 
sian Park, five hundred acres in area, presents an ex- 
tremely magnificent view. Much of the land is within 
the frostless belt, from which can be seen mountain, val- 
ley, ocean and city. The mildness of the climate permits 
the most delicate plants and trees to flourish in the open 
air all through the winter. At Christmas may be seen 
hedges of calla lilies, geranium bushes ten feet and more 
in height, and heliotrope covering the side of a house, 
while the jasmine, tuberose and orange make the air 
heavy with their delicate perfume. Giant bananas wave 
their graceful leaves in the gentle breeze. The fan and 
date palm grow to mammoth proportions, and there are 
hundreds of varieties of roses. A majority of the resi- 
dences stand in spacious grounds, a lot of fifty by one 
hundred fifty feet being the smallest occupied by a house 
of any pretension. Many have from one to five acres of 
ground, all in high state of cultivation, with well-kept, 
verdant lawns, and with fig, orange and palm trees for 
shade. The favorite varieties of shade trees along the 
streets are the pepper, eucalyptus and grevilla. The 
principal building material used in California are pine 
and red wood, and a great many houses are built in the 
early Mission style. The Bungalow is another favorite 

58 



style. One of the most attractive features about a home 
in this section is the wonderful rapidity with which vege- 
tation grows. The population of Los Angeles is cosmo- 
politan. A few years ago of the 53,000 voters only ten 
per cent, were natives of California. The most notable 
thing that has ever happened to the city of Los Angeles 
is the acquirement by the city of water rights, extending 
many miles along the banks of the Owens River in Inyo 
County. This water will be brought to the city, a dis- 
tance of two hundred and twenty miles, by means of an 
aqueduct, and more than twenty miles of tunnels. This 
will give Los Angeles a supply of pure water from the 
snow-clad sides of the highest mountain in the United 
States, " Mount Whitney, being 14,499 ^^^^ high," suffi- 
cient to supply two million people, so that not only can 
the city be amply supplied for many years, but there 
will be enough surplus to irrigate about all the available 
land in the county. The cost of the enterprise is esti- 
mated at twenty-five million dollars. The bonds were 
carried by a vote of ten to one. 

Mount Whitney is the highest elevation in the United 
States, and Death Valley the lowest, it being about four 
hundred and fifty feet below the level of the sea. They 
are both in California, within one hundred miles of each 
other. The leading seaside resorts of Los Angeles 
County are Santa Monica, Ocean Park, Venice, Redondo 
Beach, Long Beach, Terminal Island, and Catalina 
Island. All very pretty resorts. Los Angeles as an im- 
portant manufacturing centre has a very bright future, 
also its fruit growing is enormous, and alfalfa, which is 
largely grown for hay, is cut from three to six times a 
year, and cows thrive on it. In Los Angeles County 

59 



corn sometimes grows to a height of twenty feet. Pump- 
kins have been raised weighing over four hundred 
pounds. In fact it is quite a fruit centre. 

Friday, July 16, was to be the great floral parade, 
supposed to eclipse anything of its kind, being a carnival 
of all nations, and in the evening was to be given the 
grand ball at Shrine Auditorium, led by J. U. Sammis, 
Grand Exalted Ruler Elect, and the wife of the Ex- 
alted Ruler of Los Angeles. It was scheduled to be the 
biggest social event of the Elks' convention; but our 
party had to leave Thursday night. So we bid farewell 
to Los Angeles and all the pretty sights, and went back 
to our little flats on the train, and my, how stuffy it 
seemed after the nice room at the hotel; but we soon 
forgot that fact, and retired. In the morning we found 
ourselves at Santa Barbara, California, and had more 
pleasure in store. 



GO 



SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA 

On our arrival at Santa Barbara, we were taken 
through the city in carriages to see the principal points 
of interest. First up to the old Mission, which we went 
through. The church is of dressed stone, with massive 
walls heavily buttressed. The two-story towers yet shel- 
ter the chime of bells, and the famous garden with its 
fountain, so often pictured, still scents the air. This 
Mission is well preserved and is one of the most impos- 
ing of them all. It was founded December 4, 1786, by 
Father Lasuen; but the site had been surveyed in 1769 
by Father Crespa. From the sea the Mission is a beau- 
tiful landmark. We first entered in the chapel of the 
Mission where the guide gave a description of the inte- 
rior, and was obliged to request some of the men to 
remove their hats, as they really must have forgotten 
where they were. 

Then we were taken through a side door into a very 
small room, with a large fount in it, and from which a 
great many Indians had been baptized. We were sup- 
posed to place an offering in a small box. We went 
from there out in the garden, and were shown some 
graves where Indians were buried, and beautiful flowers, 
then along the corridor and up the winding stairway to 
the tower. A pretty view from the tower — all the car- 
riages and the large assembly of Elks with their friends 
in the foreground and the quaint old Mission made a 
pretty picture. From the Mission we visited the Elks' 

61 



Club House, where they had a fine repast for us. Hot 
tamales, which the natives consider a great treat, were 
very plentiful, and piping hot; but one bite sufficed me. 
They had some sort of spiced meat, very tasty, and all 
the sandwiches we wanted, and plenty of beer and cof- 
fee. Our ride in the bracing morning air of three hours 
made us quite hungry, and we ate ravenously. Then we 
walked back to the train, looking at the little low stores 
and curios as we passed along. Santa Barbara lies 
northwest from Los Angeles, on the coast line of the 
Southern Pacific. The new Hotel Potter, located on a 
large tract facing the ocean boulevard, is the largest in 
the city. An edifice six stories high, covers two acres of 
ground, and cost a million dollars. It is built on the 
old Spanish Mission style, has five hundred guest rooms, 
four roof gardens, polo grounds and tennis courts. 
Santa Barbara was founded in 1782, and of the old Pre- 
sidio no trace remains save some slight mounds where 
the walls crumbled away years ago. Around it in the 
old days clustered the adobe houses of the first residents, 
for it was a frontier garrison of Old Spain. Just off 
the main street, and facing the City Hall Plaza, is the 
former residence of Governor De la Guerre, still occu- 
pied by his family. The Bay of Santa Barbara is as 
renowned for its beauty as is that of famed Naples, 
which it so much resembles. We all visited a garden at 
the Mission, but whether it was the sacred garden which 
no women are allowed to enter, and has since been 
opened to the public, I do not know ; but I was told only 
two women have ever been permitted in the sacred and 
historic garden, one being the wife of a former Presi- 
dent of the United States, Mrs. B. Harrison, and the 

62 



other a European princess. For one hundred and 
twenty-four years the Angelus has rung out every day 
from its mellow-toned old bells. 

Our train left Santa Barbara at noon. As we moved 
out from the station, a band was playing, and some of 
the younger people dancing. For a little while there 
was a heavy fog, and it was quite damp; but it soon 
cleared, and we had a fine view of the ocean from Santa 
Barbara to Paso Robles. Before reaching Paso Robles, 
our band came through the train, all the way to the 
baggage car and back, composed of a tin pan, frying 
pan, and various other articles that would make loud 
noises by pounding. No matter what noises were made 
by any of the party, we all joined in and made things 
lively. That afternoon we were all given another half- 
pound box of assorted chocolates by the committee, and 
while eating them we passed the Santa Lucia moun- 
tains, from a plain of which the play of " A Girl from the 
Golden West " was taken, and not far away could 
be seen beautiful rows of pine trees and Sugar Loaf 
mountain. We crossed a very high trestle winding up 
in the mountains, with three engines pulling us, and 
pufiing vigorously. During this climb we went through 
seven tunnels, one being one and a quarter miles long. 
It is impossible to describe the feeling of awe and won- 
der, as you look below and see the ^various lines of 
tracks you have climbed. It must be seen to be appre- 
ciated. As we went through the various tunnels it was 
pitch dark, and at the first one a few set up a howl, which 
was taken up by all hands when we came to the second, 
and all sorts of peculiar noises could be heard ; but what 
is the use of living if one can't have a little fun. 

63 



PASO ROBLES, CALIFORNIA 

Paso Robles, meaning " Pass of the Oaks/' is a trim 
little country town with about fifteen hundred inhabi- 
tants, and lies in a narrow part of the Salinas Valley, 
where the rolling uplands crowd close down to the river. 
The elevation is seven hundred and twenty feet above 
the sea, which is twenty miles away. The Santa Lucia 
range shuts out ocean fogs on the west. At Paso Ro- 
bles is situated the San Miguel Mission, founded in 
1797 by Father Lausen, one of the Franciscan friars. 
At one time there was an acqueduct eight miles long and 
a fifteen-foot adobe wall two miles long surrounding the 
buildings and plaza. It speaks volumes for the fertility 
of this country, when it is learned that within twenty 
years these peaceful friars, coming unheralded among 
the Indians, had livestock under the care of the Mission, 
valued at over three million dollars. 

On our arrival at Paso Robles, we went immediately 
to the Hotel Paso Robles, where we had dinner. It 
being dark, we spent most of our time around the hotel 
grounds. The hotel is of red brick, three stories high, 
and with a frontage of about three hundred feet. The 
verandas are broad, the rooms large, the dining-room 
cheerful, and the great wood fireplaces are a feature. A 
cozy club house stands among the Oaks, with wide ve- 

64 



randas. The new bath house is connected with the hotel 
by an inclosed arcade. Some of the features of the new 
Paso Robles Hot Springs bath are these. Dressing- 
rooms of white cedar, finely polished. Bathrooms of 
station marble. Treatment-room of white cedar for each 
six bathrooms, wainscoted with Italian marble. Tubs 
of pure porcelain. Cooling-rooms with white metal 
tiling. A great plunge bath forty by eighty feet grad- 
uated depth, supplied directly from the flowing well. 
No stains will adhere to the glass or tiled walls, no 
steamy odors will be absorbed. Glass, porcelain, mar- 
ble and metal are largely used, and care taken that no 
wooden floors, tubs, treatment-tables or such be admitted 
that could absorb moisture or odor, or harbor a germ. 
An electric blower provides complete ventilation. The 
celebrated moor or mud deposits, through which there 
is a constant flow of hot sulphur water, offer excep- 
tional opportunities for the administration of the mud 
baths, that are so beneficial. 

Some of us went back to the train about 1 1 p. m. and 
retired, but we did not leave Paso Robles until 2 a. m. 
Next morning someone told us we had crawled through 
quite a sand slide, and that a gentleman sitting in the 
baggage car touched the sand as we passed through. 



65 



DEL MONTE, CALIFORNIA 

We arrived at Del Monte Hotel, July 17, for break- 
fast. A magnificent place and elegant service. The 
grounds of this fine hotel are open to the public, and 
are easily reached by trolley car. It is a dream of 
beauty. Its setting is one of the finest hotels in the 
world. It has parks of native oaks and giant pines, with 
beautiful lawns, and fine flowers. Cactus from Arizona 
fill a whole section of the grounds. Travellers from every 
part of the globe visit this fine hotel time and again, en- 
tranced with the beauty, dignity, and refinement of the 
place. It contains over five hundred rooms, and is oper- 
ated on the American plan only. There are one hundred 
and twenty-six acres of ground, containing one thousand 
three hundred and sixty-five different varieties of plant 
life. The dining-room is beautiful, trimmed in green and 
white wainscoting, large windows with fine lace curtains, 
four immense mirrors, one on either side and one front 
and back. The tables run six rows across and fifteen in 
length. As we entered the dining-room, the waitresses 
were stationed all around the room, and not one of them 
moved, until all the guests were seated; then, without a 
word or sound, all came forward to their various tables 
and we were served quickly and graciously. The sys- 
tem was certainly fine. After breakfast we were given 

66 



the famous seventeen-miles drive, some in automobiles, 
others in coaches. This roadway begins at Pacific 
Grove. Its chief charm is its infinite variety. For 
three miles it winds through a virgin forest of pines 
and oaks, gracefully hung with a delicate lace moss, while 
underneath is a great tangle of vines and ferns. The 
road suddenly opens on the shore of the Pacific, which 
extends five miles past granite cliffs, and wildly break- 
ing surf, past rocks and islets covered with legions of 
sea birds, and one of the largest seal rookeries on the 
coast. This rookery is situated a few hundred feet 
from the shore, and is at all seasons occupied by herds 
of seals and huge sea lions. At Cypress Point the road 
crossed the habitat of the Monterey Cypress, a forest of 
hoary and grotesque giants. Turning it passes Pebble 
Beach, covered with rarest pebbles, and through a pic- 
turesque Chinese fishing village; threads its way up a 
fine mountain canon and over the tree-clad smnmit of 
the peninsula, bringing Monterey and Del Monte into 
full view. There are some fine large trees, one of which 
is called Merry Widow, another Bee Hive, and two trees 
with their branches grow in such a shape as to represent 
an ostrich, which can be seen long before you reach it, 
also quite a number of sycamore trees, which we were 
told grew nowhere else except the Holy Land ; but I have 
since been told they grow in Japan. Del Monte is situ- 
ated on the shore of Monterey Bay, near the quaint and 
historic town of Monterey. At Monterey is the old Mis- 
sion San Carlos Borromeo, established June 3, 1770, and 
Mission Del Rio Carmelo, July 10, 1771, both founded 
by Father Junipero Serra. The town presents a mix- 
ture of old Spanish and modern buildings. It was the 

67 



first capital of California, where the State constitution 
was confirmed. We saw the old Spanish custom-house, 
where the American flag was first raised by Commodore 
Sloat in 1846, on taking possession of California for the 
United States. The cross which marks the landing of 
the Franciscan Fathers in 1773, the first theatre in Cali- 
fornia, where Jennie Lind once sang, the house where 
Robert Louis Stevenson lived, and many ancient tiled- 
roofed adobe dwellings once tenanted by famous old 
Mexican and Spanish families, are still to be seen as they 
existed a century ago. A visit to the Presidio of Mon- 
terey is well worth while. This is now one of the most 
important military posts in the United States, growing 
from an obscure reservation to a ten company post in 
consequence of the war with Spain and the acquisition 
of the Philippines. This Presidio was once controlled 
by the Spaniards, and later, in 1882, by the Mexican 
government. There are also marine gardens at Pacific 
Grove, seen through glass bottom boats, where can be 
seen strange rock formations, like castles, houses and 
towns lying amid forests of seaweed. After our beauti- 
ful ride we went back to the hotel, visited the curio 
room, and bought some pretty pins, and of course post 
cards, then sat on the hotel veranda in the sun, facing 
the beautiful garden, until it was time to go back to the 
train. At the station were men selling all kinds of fur, 
which quite a number of the tourists bought. There 
were two other specials besides our party waiting for their 
trains, so there was quite some sport among us all. Our 
train left about i p. m., and after that fine ride every- 
body was hungry. 

68 




^j>^^£MU^-3,£jsP^l^^, 



'M 



^^^ 



BIG TREE, SANTA CRUZ 



SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA 

On our arrival at Santa Cruz we found we had to 
wait two hours for a train to convey us to the big tree 
grove. Meanwhile we went down to the beach, where 
they had a fine casino, pleasure pier, and a nice beach 
for bathing. We strolled around awhile, then went 
back to the station, saw an empty train standing there, 
and of course we all piled in, and when comfortably 
seated, someone called, " All out," no train for the big 
trees until 7 o'clock. Some got out and went back to 
the beach, others went in search of Mr. Vincent to find 
out the cause of the delay. They scolded and blamed 
him, and almost came to blows, when finally a lady 
asked him what caused the delay, and he said there were 
not trains enough to accommodate the people. We 
stayed in the train simply because we had comfortable 
seats, and could see all that was going on outside. We sat 
there over two hours, and it was quite amusing to watch 
the meetings of passengers as the different trains rolled 
in from different places, and the peculiar looking con- 
veyances they drove away in. Someone came in our 
train and shouted, *' Tickets for a dance," then the train 
started with about a dozen of us in it. They only went 
a short distance in the yards, switched on another track, 
then back to the station, where we had to get out and 

69 



wait about half an hour for our train. It was just 
about 7 p. M. when we boarded our train, and by the 
time we reached the Grove it was too dark to see any- 
thing, but some of us jumped out and saw what we 
could by lantern light, and our Bayonne party of ten all 
stood in the hollow of one tree. The New York section, 
which had been with us since we arrived at Los An- 
geles, managed to reach the Grove in the afternoon, 
where they had music, dancing, sandwiches, soft drinks, 
and saw the big trees. We were quite disappointed, but 
had to make the best of it. The city of Santa Cruz is 
situated on the bay of Monterey, eighty miles north of 
San Francisco. The population in 1840 was about two 
hundred and fifty. The flag of the United States was 
raised over Santa Cruz in July, 1846. The city was 
chartered in 1876. It has now a population of fifteen 
thousand. The Santa Cruz mountain range is about 
fifteen miles from the shore line, whose average altitude 
is from two thousand to twenty-five hundred feet, 
the highest peak, " Loma Prieta" (Black Mountain), 
rising to an elevation of 4287 feet. These mountains 
are fenders against the north winds, and condense the 
moisture as it is carried by clouds inland from the 
ocean. The rain clouds encounter these hills, and Santa 
Cruz County secures an annual rainfall of from twenty 
to thirty inches, which is nearly double that received 
by its neighbors over the range. Not a thousand dol- 
lars' worth of damages has been done by wind in this 
county in fifty years. The main thoroughfares of Santa 
Cruz are macadamized, and there are seventeen miles 
of concrete sidewalks. The beach and the cliff are in- 
teresting in all sorts of weather. There are few days 

70 



in the winter not enjoyable for outdoor exercises and 

sports. Among the greatest natural wonders of Santa 
Cruz are the big redwoods. Two groves of these trees 
have been permanently preserved. An area of nearly 
four thousand acres, known as Sempervirens Park, was 
purchased about six years ago by the State, and this 
reservation forms one of the finest forests in the world; 
besides containing hundreds of big trees, there are to 
be found in it all the native woods and shrubs, peculiar 
to the Pacific Coast. The State paid a quarter of a mil- 
lion dollars to secure this possession, and thousands are 
being expended annually for its care and preservation: 
fifty of the trees in this grove range from thirty to sixty 
feet in circumference, and from two to three hundred 
feet in height. The grove is only five miles from the 
city. This grove has been visited by prominent people 
from all over the world, and no one who has the chance 
should miss seeing the big trees. Santa Cruz County 
is next to the smallest in area in California, containing 
a little over 300,000 acres and about 35,000 inhabitants; 
but it presents a combination of scenic beauty and fertile 
soil which is now receiving the attention of home-seek- 
ers of the better class. They have sixteen postofiices, 
and county residents are served by rural free delivery 
routes, covering one hundred and twenty square miles. 
Santa Cruz has electric and water power, as well as oil, 
gas, and wood for steam power, in abundance. For 
many years the California power works, just outside the 
city limits, has employed two hundred men. Oil for 
fuel is cheaper on Monterey Bay than at any other point 
on the Pacific coast. Petroleum was first produced in 
paying quantities in this vicinity in 1904; the present 

71 



yield of the local wells is about one thousand two hun- 
dred barrels daily. Lime rock of a quality equal to 
the famous quarries in Maine is abundant in Santa 
Cruz. After our brief stop at the big tree grove we 
had a two hours' ride before reaching San Jose and 
dinner. A great many being disappointed, disgusted 
and tired went to sleep; but you know there is always 
some good natured individual to make things lively, 
and the time passed quickly. 



72 



SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA 

We arrived at San Jose about 9:30 p. m. and went 
immediately to the St. James Hotel for dinner, for which 
we were scheduled at 6 p. m. The St. James Hotel 
is one of the notable structures of the city, being some- 
what in advance of the hotels that are usually found in 
cities of the size of San Jose. It is fireproof, contains 
250 rooms, and has all the modern improvements. San 
Jose is a city of 57,000 people. Built upon an almost 
level, elevated floor, eighty-seven feet above the sea. 
The twenty square miles of city are beautiful, with 
broad avenues and shady walks. The city is half en- 
veloped and wholly adorned with a great wealth of 
trees, shrubs and flowers, which are too numerous to 
mention, as San Jose is called the rose garden of the 
earth. In the centre of this city of parks, lawns and 
gardens, is the business area, the handsomest and most 
impressive series of business blocks in all the smaller 
cities of the west. Blocks of stone and bricks, two to 
seven stories high, line well paved streets. In the centre 
of the city is the largest electric tower in America. The 
pride of San Jose is the Alum Rock Canyon Park, un- 
equalled in the State. This is a canyon playground of 
one thousand acres, in the Coast mountains, seven miles 
east of the town, reached by an electric railway. Here 

73 



are sixteen mineral springs. The different waters are 
on exhibition in the Santa Clara County exhibit. So 
far as one may see from mountain trail or country road, 
high above all else rise the spires and domes of its 
churches. There is also a Mission at Santa Clara 
founded by Father Junipero Serra in 1777, a place of 
much interest. After finishing dinner at the St. James 
we were taken to the Elks' Club House, where we were 
entertained royally, and a layout fit for a king, besides 
all the fruits the city boasts of, among which were 
fresh figs ; but which I could not say I relished, although 
I suppose you have to cultivate a taste for such fruits. 
The claret punch was delicious. Besides all the eatables 
and drinking fluids, we had a theatrical entertainment. 
The proprietor of the theatre being an Elk, and it being 
after theatre hours the talent all came in the club house. 
They played and sang funny songs, did funny stunts, 
and a fine opera singer favored us three or four times. 
We staid till after twelve o'clock and when we left were 
loaded with packages of fruit, and post cards, those who 
left after we did were loaded with lightning; but they 
had a good time and came out all right. While our 
train was at the depot a young woman in a stateroom 
was gagged and robbed of her money. Two ladies on 
the train reimbursed her, and with the exception of the 
fright, she managed to get along nicely. When we 
reached the train it did not take us long to retire, as we 
had quite a series of changes for one day, and hustling 
from one place to another tires one ; but at the time you 
do not notice the fatigue, enjoying every minute of the 
changing scene. We were side tracked and did not 
leave San Jose until 5 a. m., Sunday morning. Our next 

74 



stop was Oakland, arriving there at 8:15. Oakland is 
the terminal of the Southern Pacific, Central Pacific, 
Santa Fe, and Western Pacific railroads. Passengers 
and freight are transferred from Oakland to San Fran- 
cisco and other points by ferry. Oakland borders on 
the bay of San Francisco for a distance of fifteen miles 
and, in addition thereto, Oakland harbor furnishes a 
safe and sufficient anchorage in any storm to accommo- 
date at one time all the shipping of the Pacific coast. 



75 



SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA 

We crossed the ferry and boarded the sight-seeing 
cars, which took us all through the city. We went 
through the part where the terrible fire was, which in some 
places was still quite desolate, while in others immense 
new buildings had been erected. Just after we started 
the power gave out, causing quite a delay, at which there 
was considerable fault finding and grumbling. From 
what I saw of the city I would not care to live there. 
We finally reached a place called Land's End, high up 
on the rocks, by the sea, from which there was a fine 
view. Up on a hill was a large cross erected by the 
Episcopalians. We stopped at the ClifT House and 
walked all around the stone bluff, which is railed in very 
high. The sea washes up against the rocks, and you 
can look way out to sea. At low tide the beach affords 
a fine drive-way. Main Street is one of the famous 
thoroughfares of the world. It runs diagonally across 
the city in a southwesterly direction, from the ferry 
building to twin peaks, a distance of four miles. On the 
south side the cross streets meet Market Street at right 
angles ; but on the north side the streets converge, form- 
ing a gore at every block, giving an opportunity for 
a series of fine buildings, adding greatly to the beauty and 
nobility of the streets. Golden Gate Park is the pride 

76 



of San Francisco. It contains 1140 acres, and tropical 
plants bloom in the open air the year around. San 
Francisco was once a sleepy pueblo gathered around 
the Mission Dolores which Padre Paloa founded in 
1776, the oldest edifice in the city, and in an excellent 
state of preservation. In 1850 it had a population of 
40,000. To-day its population exceeds 500,000, while 
adding the residents of suburbs within a radius of 12 
miles brings the population of Greater San Francisco 
up to one million. The city covers about 30,000 acres, 
it has 800 miles of streets and 250 miles of street rail- 
way. It has fifty banks, many public parks, fine muse- 
ums, eighty-five public schools, most modern public 
buildings in the United States. The hotels of San 
Francisco will accommodate 40,000 guests, and are noted 
for their excellent service. The bay is noted for its beauty, 
and covers four hundred square miles, almost land- 
locked, and has comfortable deep water anchorage for 
all the navies of the world. The first ship that sailed 
into San Francisco Bay was the little Spanish ship 
San Carlos which arrived in 1775 under the com- 
mandante Ayala, from Mexico. Arriving at the Fair- 
mount hotel about noon we proceeded to what they call 
the Crypt Grill, where our luncheon was served. 'A 
very clean and comfortable place designed especially 
for business men and tourists. The main dining-room 
on the ground floor overlooks the bay and terrace. Two 
hundred people can be served at one time. The walls 
are decorated in white and gold, with hangings of red 
silk. The breakfast room is done in pearl gray. They 
have an elegant ball room, two hundred and twenty 
feet long by one hundred feet wide, decorated in white 

77 



and gold, with hangings of blue silk; the wall on the 
left is covered with French plate mirrors. The floor 
is known as a spring floor, making dancing a pleasure 
never to be forgotten. To the right on the second floor 
there is a balcony where boxes are located, and tea 
and card rooms for the use of the guests. A banquet 
hall adjacent to the ball room is hung with rich red 
satin damask, and French plate glass, the ceiling is 
decorated in white and gold. This room will accomo- 
date two hundred guests. At the time of the great fire 
the Fairmount hotel was just ready to open its doors 
to the public. It passed through the conflagration 
structurally uninjured, although all the furnishings were 
destroyed. Work was immediately resumed and the 
entire building refurnished at a cost of over three mil- 
lion. It opened its doors just one year after the fire, 
April 1 8, 1907. It occupies an entire city block, has 
accommodation for one thousand guests. Every room 
is an outside room with bath attached. We sat in the 
foyer quite a while, which was covered with heavy red 
rugs, then walked down the hill to inspect Chinatown, 
and although it was Sunday quite a number of the fine 
shops were open, showing beautiful wares, and fine 
linens. The proprietors were fine looking aristocratic 
men. Further along we came to the pwDorer, dirty class, 
and their stores looked filthy, especially the meat shops, 
which were crowded with men buying. We saw a few 
Chinese women, dressed very neat and clean, with an 
abundance of black shiny hair. We walked till we were 
tired, then went down to the ferry, crossed over, and 
found we had taken the wrong boat. There were four 
in our party; but we had plenty of time, and by taking 

78 



trolley cars at two or three places, we were at the Oak- 
land pier before the rest of the party. We rode through 
pretty little towns, in funny little cars, and enjoyed the 
trip immensely. We left Oakland at 7 p. m. with great 
shouting from those at the station. About 9 p. m. we 
crossed San Pablo Bay on the largest ferry boat in the 
world, Solano, capable of holding four trains of six cars 
each, with engines; bay one mile across. Most of our 
party got off the train and were down on the boat while 
crossing. It was quite a novel and interesting experi- 
ence. The next morning we had quite some fun over 
a German woman in our car. She was always losing 
something. This time it was a green rose hat pin which 
she said cost $3.50. She made a great fuss, and had 
the porter undo the bunk, take it all apart and even 
look through the soiled bedding. She kept grumbling 
and telling George to keep cool and not get excited, and 
the poor fellow had not opened his mouth; but if looks 
could kill! oh, my. It was finally found sticking in 
the cushion of the seat behind her, and something simi- 
lar happened constantly. We all had to vacate when 
she entered the dressing room, or else help dress her. 



79 



SHASTA SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA 

Monday morning, July 19, was a grand morning, and 
the scenery winding up in the mountains impossible to 
describe. Everybody was late getting up, and as we 
were not due at Shasta Springs until 11 a. m.^ no one 
seemed to hurry. We rode along the Sacramento river 
a long time, until rounding a curve we were at Shasta 
Springs. An ideal spot. As you step off the train you 
see spouts of water shooting in the air like fountains, 
and the incline railway to take those up who do not 
care for the fatigue of walking. I walked up and en- 
joyed every step of the ascent. At short distances, and 
especially at turns in the pathway, were stumps of trees 
and rustic seats to rest a while on. The hotel and 
cottages are located on top of the hill on fine level 
ground, at the base of Mt. Shasta, also a fine pavilion 
open all around with easy chairs, rustic seats, and tables, 
a fine spot to sit and chat and drink in the wonderful 
view. No matter which way you turn or in what di- 
rection you look, can be seen water either rushing or 
spouting from somewhere. Springs, fountains and falls. 
A great many of the party assembled as near as allow- 
able to the various waters, in groups, and someone else 
snapped their photo, some of the groups looking very 
picturesque. Our luncheon was served out doors, under 

80 



the trees, like a picnic, and I thought it a fine idea, with 
the bright blue sky overhead, and the snow-topped Mt. 
Shasta in the distance. Some made a great fuss be- 
cause we were jiot served in the hotel; but most of the 
party enjoyed the change, and a great many of the 
ladies staying at the cottage turned to and helped serve, 
which was very gracious on their part. They say the 
electric illumination in the evening at Shasta Springs 
is a dazzling, brilliant sight. There are many fine 
drives around Shasta Springs, the one to the Mt. Cloud 
river being a most beautiful fifty-mile private auto 
boulevard. The road has just been completed, and is 
in perfect condition. The j newly completed concrete 
swimming pool, open to the sky and surrounded by 
pine trees, is 150 feet long, 30 feet wide and from four 
to eight feet deep. There is fine fishing in the Sacra- 
mento River. We left Shasta Springs at i p. m. wind- 
ing through the Sierra Nevada mountains for two hours, 
with Mt. Shasta visible first at one side of the train, 
then the other; some one would call out, "Oh, there is 
the snow mountain again." As we passed through 
Oregon we saw one of the finest apple crops in the 
world. 



81 



PORTLAND, OREGON 

Before reaching Portland we made a short stop at a 
town and the ladies gave us fruit and flowers, they also 
had a band of music to welcome us as the train pulled 
in, and played when we left. The Oregon farms were 
well kept, and everything about them looked so orderly. 
We arrived at Portland July 20, 8 a. m.^ where we spent 
the entire day. Our first trip was a tour of the city 
in observation cars, where a great many streets had 
roses growing on either side of the flagging oi) the side- 
walks, beautiful large roses. We ascend an easy wind- 
ing grade, every turn of which presents to the eye a 
changing view of marvelous beauty, and high above the 
maple and elm shaded streets of the city you reach Port- 
land Heights and Council Crest. A noble city set in 
the green valley below, threaded by the silver current 
of the Willamette. 

From the Crest observatory can be seen five snow- 
capped mountain peaks. Mt. Hood, 11,225 feet, St. 
Helens, io,5CX) feet, are comparatively near; but 
Mt. Rainier, 14,519 feet, is one hundred miles away. 
Midway between Mt. Helens and Hood is Adams, 12,- 
000 feet, and Jefferson, 10,206 feet. We finally arrive 
at the old Lewis and Clark fair ground, where we can 
get out and visit the forestry building, built entirely of 

82 



immense fir logs, and is the largest of its kind. It is 
the one permanent structure which commemorates the 
1905 fair, and which houses one of the finest forestry 
buildings extant. A lecturer describes all objects of in- 
terest. Portland is called the City of Roses, because of 
the luxuriant growth of that beautiful flower, which at 
certain times of the year blossoms everywhere. 

The city is somewhat more than a hundred miles 
from the Pacific Ocean, on the Willamette river, twelve 
miles above the junction with the Columbia river. The 
first primitive building in what is now called Portland 
was constructed in 1844; but it was not until 1848 that 
a name was given the city. The names Boston and 
Portland were in rivalry for the name of the town, and 
was decided by the toss up of a penny. The city is 
beautifully located on both sides of the Willamette river. 
Beautiful parks and drives abound, and its well kept 
paved streets are lined with fine residences. Portland 
has many fine churches and public buildings, splendid 
hotels, many of them new, strictly fireproof, elegantly 
furnished and capacious, with meal service of the highest 
order. Also a goodly number of theatres and amuse- 
ment resorts are maintained. The population of Port- 
land is estimated at 250,000. Its area is forty-four 
square miles. It has 177 miles of street railway, 312 
miles of paved streets and 152 miles of sewers. Its 
building record for 1906 aggregated nearly $7,000,000, 
and its clearing house association record for the same 
period exceeded $280,000,000. Portland has one of the 
finest water works systems in the world. The water 
comes from Bull Run, a stream flowing from the springs 
and snow banks of Mt. Hood, and it is piped forty miles 

83 



to the city. There are many beautiful pleasure trips 
from Portland, among which is the sail up the Columbia 
river, a distance of 145 miles the round trip. A steamer 
leaves daily at 6 130, returning the same day. You pass 
Cape Horn, Castle Rock, and Pillars of Hercules im- 
posing mountains of solid rock jutting into the waters 
of this great river. Farms, orchards and little villages, 
and the Locks, a sight worth the entire trip, completed 
by the United States Government at an enormous cost. 
We dined at the Portland hotel for luncheon, the lead- 
ing hotel of the city. Its seven stories and basement 
covers the entire square block. It is the business centre 
of the city, convenient to all retail stores and theatres. 
The structure is of stone and brick. A spacious court 
100 feet in width and 100 feet in depth indents the 
centre of this immense structure, adorned in the middle 
with a circular flat, planted with rare and beautiful 
shrubs, which delight the guests who throng the piazzas, 
as well as seen from the towers of observation. Dur- 
ing the spring and summer months, they have out-door 
concerts which are charming. On the main floor are 
private dining-rooms, for luncheons, dinner parties and 
banquets. The entire interior has been newly decorated 
and furnished throughout with the very best mahogany 
furniture. It is conducted on the European plan only. 
After luncheon we walked five or six blocks, to cars 
waiting to take us to a resort called the Oaks. A 
pleasure given us at the expense of the Portland Elks. 
The ride was short, but pretty, and a beautiful little 
park, with all sorts of amusements, similar to Coney Is- 
land on a smaller scale, all free to the ladies. A very 
nice auditorium where Donatelli's Band played special 



pieces for our benefit. A fine band too. We spent 
about three hours at the Oaks, then boarded the car 
which took us back to the city. We walked around the 
shopping district awhile looking at the pretty articles, 
then back to the hotel, where we washed up and made 
ourselves as presentable as possible for dinner. Later 
we sat on the veranda Hstening to the music which was 
beautiful, when a gentleman came toward us and said 
he wanted us to come and see a pretty sight. He had 
been down stairs and saw the banquet room empty; but 
decorated with palms, and flowers, and the table set for 
at least a dozen if not more; but when we arrived on 
the scene the guests were all seated; all looked bald- 
headed and wore linen dusters; Turks in costume were 
serving them with drinks; we were enjoying the fun 
immensely, standing just inside the doorway, when a 
young man came toward us horrified at seeing us there, 
telling us we must go right out immediately, this is 
strictly private, you have no business here. Of course 
we obeyed, but I bet those men had a high old time be- 
fore they left, with their glass table. From the hotel 
we went to the Elks' club rooms. They had a band 
of music playing all evening, and very comfortable chairs 
in a nicely furnished room. We spent an hour or so 
there, then went back to our home on the rails. On 
the train some of our party had a great deal of fun 
tickling the men under their arms as they went through. 
One man was very ticklish, and he had such a time pass- 
ing that everybody was in roars of laughter. After 
awhile he wanted to go through again, and appeared 
in the doorway with his pants rolled up to his knees, 
his sleeves pulled up, and a beer bottle in his hand. 

85 



He made a brave dash and went through, then dehber- 
ately turns around to come back again; but this time 
he whirls the bottle round and round over his head, 
which was filled with water, spilling the contents over 
everybody in the car, as he passed through. He had 
a clear road, no one stopped him, and in a few minutes 
he appeared at the door, saying he would treat any of 
us that cared to drink. They made a dash for him, and 
he disappeared for the night, but it cured the people 
who had done the tickling. 



86 



SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 

Arriving at Seattle we were scheduled to stop at the 
Savoy hotel ; but the city being over-crowded on account 
of the exposition, we were taken to the Butler Annex, 
and such confusion. There was no one there to locate 
us and everybody was angry. We waited fully an hour 
to be shown to our rooms and then the fun began. In- 
stead of staying at the hotel, they had procured rooms 
for us in private houses all over the neighborhood. My 
aunt and I were sent three blocks in one direction from 
the hotel, and our men folks three blocks in the other 
direction. Some were fortunate enough to secure rooms 
at the hotel. Seattle is very hilly, and our house was at 
the top of one of those hills, we had a fine large room 
nicely furnished, and a nice bath room, which we greatly 
appreciated. In about two hours we went back to the 
hotel and found the boys. We then took an auto ride 
through the city which took two hours. Out to Lake 
Washington, through the park, around Green Lake, to 
the new Boulevard, through Washington Park speedway, 
which is the same to Seattle as our Riverside drive is 
to New York City, through the residential district and 
back through the business district where we got out, 
and went through a great many of the stores buying 
souvenirs. After hunting around for a suitable restau- 

87 



rant and supplying the inner man, we boarded a trolley 
car and went out to the exposition, about half an hour's 
ride. The Alaska- Yukon Pacific Exposition opened 
June I St, 1909, and closed on October 16. It stood on 
the grounds of the University of Washington, and eight 
of the buildings are of permanent construction, to revert 
to the University. They are the first permanent build- 
ings that have been erected for an exposition. In all 
$605,000 has been spent in buildings to be added to those 
already owned by the University. The A. Y. P. E. was 
the first to be completed in every detail, before the open- 
ing date. The cactus dahlia, the official flower of the 
exposition, could be seen all over the grounds, and as 
you turned into different walks, either side of the walk 
was a bank of poppies, geraniums, and other flowers, 
each walk being different, a beautiful sight. We visited 
the Auditorium, where concerts were given daily. The 
fine arts building filled with paintings and statuary from 
all parts of the world. In the court of honor were 
grouped the Government buildings, and such exhibit 
structures as the Manufacturers, Agriculture, Foreign, 
and Oriental palaces, in front of which was a fine cas- 
cade, and in the distance looms up Mt. Rainier. The 
gardens all slope toward the lakes, making a very pretty 
picture. In one of the buildings they had beautiful speci- 
mens of shells and pearl ornaments, gorgeously shaded. 
We ate our supper at the Vienna Cafe, and my, how 
they did charge. They had two fine singers there dressed 
in Vienna costume, and I presume they caused the high 
prices ; but we were out for fun, and a good time. Those 
little things did not bother us any more than a casual 
mention. We walked around until dark and the place 

88 



was illuminated. It certainly was a brilliant sight. At 
nine o'clock we boarded the car and went to the city, 
and up the steep hill once more, to our room. We were 
grateful for a nice comfortable bed and slept well. The 
following morning we went down to the hotel to meet 
the boys, who must have felt too weary to even glance 
at their watches, for it was nine o'clock when they put 
in an appearance, and we had not tasted a morsel of 
food. After we had dined, we crossed the ferry on 
Elliott Bay to West Seattle, boarded a small trolley car 
which went up and up a hill, along a nice level avenue, 
which by the appearance of the street and new houses, 
had not been opened a great while. A dear 
friend who used to live at my home in New York had 
gone to Denver, Colorado, about seven years ago to live 
and make her home there. She has since married, and 
is now living at West Seattle. They have a fine piece 
of ground overlooking Puget Sound in the distance, 
and some day they will have a fine house there too. Just 
at present their home is small; but time improves all 
things. We had luncheon with her and staid about three 
hours, as we had no more time to spare. She has a 
bright, smart little girl about five years old. We went 
back to Seattle, had our dinner, then went back to the 
train which left at ten-thirty. Seattle was at one time 
the home of several hundred Indians, and the occasional 
meeting place of thousands, who were attracted to this 
fK>int on account of its convenience and accessibility. 
The first white settlers located there in 1852 and laid 
out a town in 1853, which they named Seattle, after a 
friendly Indian chief. The growth of the city was slow, 
during the first twenty years, the population numbering 

89 



iioo in 1870. In 1880 the number had increased to 
3533, and at the present time is 260,000. 

The city covers seventy-eight square miles, fifty of it 
land, and twenty-eight water. It owns its own water 
system, which is brought from Cedar River in the foot- 
hills of the Cascade mountains by gravitation, and is 
very soft and pure. The distance from the head works 
to Seattle is twenty-eight miles, and the water is carried 
to the city in wooden and steel pipes. Seattle is a trad- 
ing and commercial centre, and in recent years has be- 
come one of the most important manufacturing cities 
of the Pacific coast, and commands about 80 per cent, 
of the profitable trade with Alaska. The University of 
Washington occupies 355 acres on Lakes Union and 
Washington, and the Government has under considera- 
tion the connecting of these two lakes with Puget Sound, 
thus providing a fresh water harbor for all shipping. 

In the little triangular park at Pioneer Place, just in 
front of the Northern Pacific city ticket offices, stands 
a large and very fine totem pole brought from Alaska 
at heavy expense. Fort Lawton is a large United States 
Military post in the northern suburbs of the city. The 
points in and around Seattle may most of them be visited 
by street car. The sight seeing car making a thirty 
mile trip that consumes three hours, and enables tourists 
to obtain a very fair idea of the city builded like ancient 
Rome, on lofty hills, from which the eye takes in a pano- 
ramic sweep of water, forest and mountain, of which 
Seattleites are naturally very proud. The street car 
system covers nearly two hundred miles. Both electric 
and cable cars are used. There are 1500 manufactur- 
ing plants, employing 17,000 wage-earners, and turn- 

90 



ing out a combined product aggregating $60,000,000. 
Bank deposits in 1908 were $64,000,000. Foreign Ex- 
ports exceeded $18,000,000, and Foreign Imports 
equalled nearly $26,000,000. The local traffic handled 
by the so-called " mosquito fleet," equals $25,000,000 
per annum. Seattle has a fine public library, many clubs, 
over sixty schools, more than three hundred churches 
and religious societies, and owns its electric lighting 
plant and water system. Capitol Hill is the high class 
residential district, and has many beautiful homes. 
Puget Sound is that great inland sea of Washington, 
having the entrance from the Pacific Ocean in the wide 
strait of Juan de Fuca. On both sides are high moun- 
tains, with some of the highest peaks in the United 
States in view. Its surroundings are hardly less delight- 
ful than its own broad stretches of sea green, its forest 
fringed shores, and its quiet bays and inlets. There 
is a large fleet of steamers plying upon the waters of 
Puget Sound, with Seattle as their home port. These 
steamers carry freight and passengers to more than two 
hundred adjacent cities, towns, villages and ports at very 
low rates. The Puget Sound Navy Yard is located just 
across the sound from Seattle, and its supplies are all 
purchased in Seattle, which exceed $100,000 per month. 
It has the only government dry dock on the Pacific coast, 
large enough to dock a battleship, and construction of 
a much larger one to cost $2,000,000 is already under 
way. The yard gives employment to from 700 to 1000 
mechanics, and is growing in importance yearly. Some 
of our party sailed on Puget Sound, which is considered 
very beautiful; but in half a day very little can be seen 
to describe it justly. Leaving Seattle we are on our 

91 



way back to Portland, where we arrive about 7:30 
A. M.^ July 23rd; but we are not allowed to leave the 
station as we only make a short stop. All morning we 
rode along the beautiful Columbia river for one hundred 
miles, where can be seen many salmon fisheries, also the 
cascades and the bridge of the Gods. A pretty bit of 
Indian legend invests this interesting spot. On both 
the Washington and Oregon sides of the river, at the 
cascades, may be seen the rough vertical masses of rock 
two or three thousand feet high, which, folk lore says, 
were once the massive abutments of a great natural rock 
bridge, spanning the Columbia. A fierce dissension 
broke forth between Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. Fierce 
and furious grew the quarrel until Mt. Hood, in an excess 
of rage, hurled a huge mass of rock at Mt. Adams. 
This great peak, resenting the insult, replied in kind, 
and a tremendous bombardment, in which the mountains 
watched their great strength ensued. The concussion of 
the great masses of rock as they struck made the earth 
tremble, and in a furious onslaught the great natural 
bridge was broken from its moorings and fell, damming 
the river, causing the cascades of the Columbia. So 
insistent are the Indian legends, that learned geologists 
have been somewhat inclined to believe that there did 
once exist a rock bridge, quite different, however, from 
the Indian legend, while others say that it could not be 
possible. 



<>2 



DALLES, OREGON 

We reached the Dalles about noon, which is the 
terminus of steamer travel. The Dalles are a wonder- 
ful production of nature, and in many respects the most 
spectacular bit of landscape along the Columbia. The 
river of water has cut through a stream of what was 
once fiery lava and the result is on the stupendous, sen- 
sational order. The brown-black lava-basalt forms high 
steep cliffs of the most formidable sort along both sides 
of the great river, and these are entirely void of vegeta- 
tion except that of the most scanty kind. The great 
river has channeled a massive flow of basalt and the 
waters pour through in a wild rush of cross currents 
and eddies that renders navigation, even by the Indians, 
absolutely impracticable. The town of Dalles has a 
population of 4500, and several hotels. We did not 
stop, only passed the "town. Leaving Dalles we cross 
the Oregon desert of sand, at a temperature of 120, 
growing warmer during the day, and part of the night 
almost unbearable. The following morning we were a 
weary looking crowd, for the want of rest; but my, how 
the train did go during the night. We stopped at Pen- 
dleton, Oregon, where the population is 7000. It has 
broad, well paved streets, electric system, water works 
that cost $75,000, besides mills, schools and churches. 

93 



The town handles from six to eight million pounds of 
wool yearly and is the seat of Umatilla County, which 
with scarcely 25,000 population produces one per cent, 
of all the wheat raised in the United States, besides thou- 
sands of bushels of marketable corn, and barley, oats 
and hay in large quantities. At La Grande, Oregon, 
heart of the celebrated Grande Rionde Valley, is a beet 
sugar factory which produced in 1906 5,500,000 pounds 
of sugar. Immense irrigation project is in course of 
organization. As we stopped at Shoshone, Idaho, two 
men were found riding under the cars, and one man 
on top; they all got off, but as we started up again, one 
went back to his bunk underneath. Shoshone has a 
population of 1200 inhabitants. This vicinity offers 
great inducements to stock raisers, and those seeking 
homes, as large areas are being converted into farms by 
irrigation. The government is building dams in Snake 
river, and reservoirs are being constructed all through 
this section. 



94i 




ST. PETEP. S DOMEj OREGON SHORT LINE 



POCATELLO, IDAHO 

As we passed through the sandy country, the con- 
ductor of the Oregon Short Line was telHng us quite 
an amusing story. I said to him I do not see what any- 
one can find to enjoy, Hving in such a dry, hot country, 
and he repHed it was fine. He had Hved there for 
twenty-one years at " Pocatello." He said an Indian 
died and was buried, and, in the course of a few days, 
came to the world asking for a few blankets to keep him 
warm. He was so cold he could not rest. On ar- 
riving at Pocatello the tramp under the train came out, 
and our people gave him food and drink, which he de- 
voured ravenously. He laid on a long bar under one 
of the cars, and had to hang on firmly, for the least lurch 
would throw him off, and good-bye John. At Poca- 
tello was a circus, a one day show, and people came for 
miles around the country to see it. The Indians were 
numerous, happy and gay. The road was about three 
inches thick with hot dust, so we jumped in a conveyance 
which drove us to the circus. In the tent near to us 
sat a fine looking Indian Squaw, and she had the dearest 
plump baby, with great large black eyes; once or twice 
he cried a little, and I turned and held his hand, and 
talked to him. He stared at me in wonder ; but I guess 
my pale face scared him, for he seemed very quiet in 

95 



a short time. There were hundreds of Indians in the 
tent, and it was curious to watch their expressions as 
different performers pleased them. The show was very 
good, indeed. It was a very warm day, and under that 
tent in the hot dust, it was stifling. We came out and 
walked around the town, which has many fine large 
stores, and the Indians from the near reservations come 
there for their supplies. The business district covers 
about five blocks, and the population is 7500; but from 
what I saw of the town the pretty part must be behind 
the hills. On arriving at the train, in our car, sat a 
young strange woman, but she was the horse rider in 
the circus, and had known one of the gentlemen in our 
party for a number of years, both were residents of Jer- 
sey City. She stayed with us about half an hour, tell- 
ing of the trials and hardships of a travelling circus, 
when it was time for us to start, and she had to leave 
us, giving us plenty to think about for the rest of the day. 
One of the men from the circus came along on horse- 
back, and different members of our party took turns 
riding. It was amusing to watch their manoeuvres, and 
unless one is with a party of this sort, it is impossible to 
realize the fun and sport in all the small trifles that hap- 
pen at each stopping place. You must be there to ap- 
preciate it all. We left Pocatello at 6 p. m., arriving at 
Idaho Falls about 7 p. m. Dinner was just being served, 
and those of us who were not fortunate enough to ar- 
rive in time for the first sitting, either had to go back 
to their cars to sit down, or wait in the passageway for 
the next sitting, and as our party were four cars back 
from the diner, we much preferred standing, especially 
when the train was moving rapidly. Just as we stood 

96 



there the train stopped at Idaho Falls, where a gentle- 
man who proved to be an Elk jumped on with two 
large boxes, and as I was nearest to him, handed them 
to me, saying, will you kindly distribute these among the 
ladies; I thanked him and passed one box in the diner, 
asking that they be passed along, and each lady take some. 
It was a box of pansies tied in small bunches, and the 
other one was full of loose sweet peas, which some one 
took out of my hand and walked off with it, also a large 
bouquet of beautiful garden flowers which some one else 
walked off with. This gentleman's wife had picked and 
arranged them all herself, and I know a great many ap- 
preciated them, only it seemed a shame to destroy such 
pretty flowers. We had no way of keeping them in 
water, and they just lay in our seats and withered. Two 
of the young girls in our car used to put them all together 
in a large vase until bedtime, but when the bunks were 
made up, they had to be thrown out, as there was no 
place to put them. 



97 



YELLOWSTONE PARK 

We arrived at Yellowstone Park very early Sunday 
morning, July 25, but had our breakfast as usual on 
the train. We had been told to make up parties of ten, 
as that was the number the coaches carried. A great 
many did so ; but others did not, consequently there was 
much confusion, and instead of allowing the full parties 
preference of the larger coaches, those nearest at hand 
jumped in, leaving two or three vacant seats in some 
of them waiting to be filled, and when the smaller coaches 
carrying five drove up, no one wanted to split their party, 
which caused quite a delay. It was close to nine o'clock 
when we finally started off, our Bayonne party of ten 
being together. The roads were dusty, and it was very 
warm, and we were all rather quiet. We went in at the 
Western entrance from the Oregon Short Line in Mon- 
tana. On entering the park, we are in Christmas Tree 
Park, quite a forest of pines. About two miles from 
the entrance, we arrive at Madison River, and the gov- 
ernment road follows the stream to its head-waters in 
the geyser basin. We came to Riverside Military sta- 
tion, where a detachment of the United States cavalry 
is located for the protection of this part of the reserve. 
The Madison River is famous for Rainbow and Lock 
Leven trout. There are over one hundred miles of trout 

98 



streams in the park, with but few restrictions. We 
soon reach the Firehole river, along which is a very- 
pretty drive. We arrive at the Fountain hotel for 
luncheon, situated on the east side of the valley. The 
central portion is a nearly level plateau six or seven miles 
in width, only partially timbered, and covered with either 
spring deposit or marsh. The general elevation is about 
7250 feet. Fountain Geyser occupies an eminence 
(south of the hotel) about 2000 feet. Its eruptions can 
be seen from the hotel, but better near by, as the great 
quantities of steam arising from its overflow obstruct 
the view. When both the pool and crater are full of 
water to the rim, it is probable that an eruption will 
soon take place, as immediately after action the water 
falls from twelve to eighteen inches below the crater 
rim, from which point it rises gradually until the climax 
is reached. A mile from the Fountain hotel the road- 
way crosses Nez Perces Creek, the east fork of the Fire- 
hole, made famous by the Nez Perces Indians, headed 
by chief Joseph, on their memorable raid through the 
park in 1877, while pursued by General Howard and his 
command. Some few hundred feet east of the hotel 
are situated the mammoth paint pots. This remarkable 
mud caldron has a basin which measures 40x60 feet 
with a mud rim on three sides, which is from four to 
five feet in height. In this basin is a moss of fine whitish 
substance which is in a state of constant agitation. It 
resembles some vast boiling pot of paint. After lunch- 
eon we started off again, and after a short distance we 
came to Rainbow, Emerald and Boiling pools, where we 
can get out and view them. They have boards here and 
there to walk on, as there is a moisture on the cracked 

99 



ground which is ruinous to shoes. The colorings in 
the Rainbow and Emerald pools were beautiful, and in 
the Boiling pool you could drop your handkerchief, which 
would disappear, and finally come to the surface, when 
the guide would take it out on a stick and hand it to 
you. While watching this process, we were startled by 
two horses running wildly toward the river bank, and 
it seemed they had gone in the water, but the next mo- 
ment up they came again, dashing down the road, over 
the bridge, and toward the coaches. They were the first 
two horses from one of our coaches. Something fright- 
ened them and they broke loose, never stopping until 
they plunged blindly into one of the coaches, almost up- 
setting it, which caused a great commotion, one of the 
ladies fainted, and all were badly frightened. The 
horses were hurt internally. One died in a few minutes, 
and the other one the following day. That party had to 
split and take two small coaches. As we passed any 
notable geyser along the road we were allowed to get 
out and view them. The Great Fountain being about 
a mile east of the main road we did not see; but erup- 
tions occur about every eight to twelve hours, the dis- 
play lasting about half an hour. Also in this same vicin- 
ity are the White Dome Surprise, Firehole Spring, Mush- 
room and Buffalo Spring, the latter deriving its name 
from the whitened skeleton of a Buffalo that had prob- 
ably fallen in. Excelsior Geyser on the west bank of 
the Firehole is 330 feet in length by 200 feet in width 
at the widest point. The water is of a deep blue tint, 
and is intensely agitated all the time, so that dense clouds 
of steam are constantly arising from it. After an erup- 
tion the water is thrown nearly fifty feet, then explosions 

100 



occur, and large masses of rocky formation are 
hurled into Firehole river, some pieces fully 500 feet 
from the crater. Turquois Spring is a silent pool 100 
feet in diameter, and remarkable for its beautiful blue 
transparent water. There is a constant overflow from 
the spring through a shallow channel, some two feet 
wide, its side and bottom being exquisitely colored. 
Prismatic Lake is the most beautiful in the entire park 
regions. Over the bowl of this spring the water is of a 
deep blue color, changing to green toward the margin, 
while that in the shallow portions of the lake surround- 
ing the central basin has a yellow tint, gradually fading 
into orange. Outside its rim there is a brilliant red de- 
posit which shades into purple, brown and gray. This 
coloring is in vivid bands, which are strikingly marked 
and distinct. The water flowing off in every direction, 
has formed a succession of terraces down the slopes of 
the mound. It is impossible to describe the delicacy 
and richness of the coloring. The entire drive from 
Midway to the Upper Basin is among these natural 
wonders, but tourists usually proceed to the hotel located 
at the extreme south end of the Upper Basin before be- 
ginning a minute and detailed examination of them. 
Upper Geyser Basin embraces an area about four square 
miles. It contains 26 geysers and over 400 hot springs. 
Iron Spring Creek bounds it on the west, timbered moun- 
tain slopes on southeast to northwest, as it is of triangu- 
lar shape, and a wavy line of dark forest trees on the 
south. Here grouped are the grandest and mightiest 
geysers known to man. Clouds of vapor hang above 
it, and the earth is filled with strange rumblings. On we 
go until after a few days' riding of twenty-nine miles, we 

101 



arrive at Old Faithful Inn, where we stay for the night. 
Old Faithful Inn is a log structure with every conven- 
ience of a modern hotel. The rough blocks of stone, 
which form its foundation, appear as natural as when 
found at the base of the surrounding mountains. The 
interior is all built of massive logs tapering on each 
balcony as giant trees. The staircase leading to the look- 
out has split logs for steps, which a great many of us 
climbed, and were amply repaid by the fine view of the 
vicinity. It made us puff, but was worth the puff. The 
windows have small diamond shaped panes, with dainty 
French curtains looped back. Elbows of natural branches 
form the braces for the numerous gables and frame the 
many balconies and staircases surrounding the office, 
while timbers braced different ways support the high 
roof. The huge doors of the entrance and dining-room 
are noticeable to all. Their hinges and quaint iron locks, 
together with the immense clock, were hand-forged from 
bar iron. The old fire place is a welcoming sight, and 
its chimney, sixteen feet square at its base, and made 
of large lava blocks, towers high through the roof, four 
stories above. The chimney contains four large and 
four small fireplaces and fastened against it is the im- 
mense clock keeping mountain time. In another chim- 
ney in the dining-room is constructed the old-time spit 
and oven. In contrast to the rough logs, there appear 
electric candles, hardwood floors, mission furniture, gay 
rugs and curtains, all of which give a warmth and rich- 
ness to the building. The large bell on the roof an- 
nounces interesting events, and tolls a quarter of an hour 
before the opening of the dining-room. The centre 
of the building rises eight stories high surmounted by 

102 



the lookout that gives a fine view of the Geyser Basin. 
From half a dozen golden topped flag staffs float the 
emblems of various nations. At night by the aid of the 
powerful search light can be seen Old Faithful Geyser 
in action, also bears feeding at the edge of the timber. 
Old Faithful Geyser plays about every half hour, erup- 
tions by moonlight, at sunrise, or sunset, in a storm or 
in clear weather, with their varied effects, holding the visi- 
tor's attention. Its eruptions begin with a few spurts, 
from which considerable water is thrown out, these are 
followed in a few minutes by a column of hot water two 
feet in diameter, which is thrown to a height of 125 
feet, where it seems to remain stationary about three 
minutes. We saw it play three times, and with the 
searchlight playing the colors on it, it was a grand sight. 
It was the night of the 25th of July when we saw it, and 
very cold, in fact it snowed, for the following morn- 
ing the mountains were white with snow. Old Faith- 
ful Inn cost $200,000 and was opened to the public for 
the season of 1904. It was quite crowded the night we 
were there, and the men were hurrying here and there 
with cots, so that all might be comfortably housed. Dur- 
ing the evening some one popped what looked to us from 
the balcony like a handful of popcorn in the great fire 
place, and when done filled a large dish pan, which was 
passed among the guests, each one taking a handful. 
It was a very pleasing sight to sit at the railing on the 
floor above and look down and around at the groups, 
some talking, and smiling, all looking happy and inter- 
ested. We walked down to the curios building, bought 
some pretty souvenirs, then went back to the hotel and 
retired. Our room was large, airy and comfortable. 

103 



In the morning as I sat down to breakfast I was quite 
surprised at seeing a lady friend, whom I had not seen 
in several years. Our surprise was mutual. We were 
with different parties, each making the park tour. All 
through the trip we met at the lunch stations, and in 
the evening at the hotels, where we had good old-fash- 
ioned talks. As soon as breakfast was over, we had 
to get our baggage together and as our coaches came 
along, off we went for the second day. Near Old Faith- 
ful, but on the footpath, is the Grotto. A most curious 
cone, close by the roadside. Its eruptions take place 
four times daily, each one lasting about thirty minutes, 
from which immense volumes of steam escape. The 
Punch Bowl is situated on the summit of a small mound, 
with a glittering rim of bright colored formation eight- 
een inches high, boiling constantly, giving it a steady 
overflow. A small opening on the east side of the cone 
is very handsome, and much admired, having the appear- 
ance of being lined with fine satin. Morning Glory 
Spring can be seen from the stage close by the roadside. 
It is a silent pool some twenty feet in diameter. The 
peculiar shape of its funnel-like crater, and soft purple 
tint gives it this appropriate name. A great many 
beautiful geysers all along the road, and more, near the 
Firehole river, can be seen from the footpath, taking 
more time than our tour called for. We arrived at 
Thumb station for lunch, tired and hungry. It had been 
raining off and on all morning ; being very raw and cold 
we had to wrap the blankets around us to keep warm. 
There was a great scramble for the dining-room, there 
being about six hundred people to feed, some coming 
from the opposite direction. When the dining-room 

104 



was filled they closed the doors, hanging up a placard 
stating the time of the next sitting. The lunch was fine, 
and I guess everyone enjoyed the hot soup, and fresh 
hot gingerbread. We walked around to see the pecul- 
iar formations, and as we started off again were told 
to remember our coaches and places in them; but from 
what I heard afterward, I think our party was the only 
one who changed seats, giving each a chance at the best 
places, also taking turns to sit with the driver, and ask- 
ing all sorts of curious, crazy questions ; but we had any 
amount of fun. This afternoon our route was over the 
summit of the Continental Divide, near Shoshone Lake, 
the headwaters of Lewis Fork of Snake river, a branch 
of the Columbia that empties into the Pacific Ocean. 
Leaving the geysers the road follows up the Madison 
river to Keppler Cascades. One of the park soldiers on 
horseback rode along side of us for some time; they have 
to cover twenty miles of the reserve each day. We saw 
two men coming toward us on horseback, and the soldier 
said to us get ready for a hold up, by his manner we were 
not at all alarmed, and then he told us those men were 
called cowpunchers, they hunt up the horses that are let 
loose from the stages. There are stations where they 
exchange horses ; but very often from the long journey 
they give out, at which time they are loosened from the 
coach and given their freedom, until caught. The road 
continues up the Madison River about two miles, to the 
third crossing, when it leaves the river, following the 
course of Spring creek nearly to the summit of the 
Divide. At the third and last crossing of the Madison 
a side trip can be made to Lone Star geyser, about half 
a mile south of the bridge. The chief beauty of this 

105 



geyser lies in its cone, which is striped vertically with 
bands of white, lavender and brown, intermixed with 
shades of yellow, and is completely covered with pearl 
like beads. Shoshone Point about half way between the 
Upper Basin and Yellowstone Lake commands fine views. 
It overlooks Shoshone Lake, and its beautiful valley. 
Shoshone Lake has an area of about a dozen square 
miles, with an irregular shore line. On a clear day can 
be seen the three snow capped sentinels of the Teton 
mountains fifty miles distant, that form a portion of the 
boundary between the States of Wyoming and Idaho, 
overtopping all other peaks of the Rockies, full 14,000 
feet high. If any one prefers they may go to the hotel by 
steamer on the lake, but at additional cost. There are 
no less than seven hot spring areas surrounding Yellow- 
stone Lake. They comprise over sixty springs and paint 
pots and several geyser cones, one of which rises above 
the lake surface just a few feet from shore, standing 
upon which one may catch trout, and dipping them into 
the hot water in the crater of the cone, cook them with- 
out taking from the hook. This is no fish story ; but an 
actual fact. Nearly opposite the fishing cone is another 
paint pot basin, about fifty feet in diameter, a mass of 
beautifully colored, fine clay tinting on pinks and reds, 
around the edges are a dozen or more hollow mud cones 
from which discharges of mud often occur. This was 
a very cold disagreeable day, drizzling rain all day. Dur- 
ing the day we saw four deer, and they looked so gentle, 
not the least bit timid. The road by a lake had been 
washed out from the storm, and they had to prop the 
bridge up with large stones so travellers could resume 
their journey. After a day of thirty-five miles of driv- 

106 



ing we arrive at the Lake hotel, where the log fires in 
the grates looked very cheerful. Everything is so ar- 
ranged at the Lake hotel that guests can spend the entire 
season there, making short easy trips of sightseeing, 
or exploring all points of the great reserve. Yellow- 
stone Lake is fifteen by twenty miles in size. This is 
the largest body of water in North America at so great 
an altitude, 7740 feet above sea level. The natural 
bridge, an arch of stone, is some forty feet high and six 
feet wide, its abutments being some thirty feet apart, 
situated four miles southwest from the Lake hotel. Dur- 
ing the trout season, a catch of one hundred, three or 
four hours before sundown, is a common occurrence. At 
this hotel we had to bunk in a room, but they were large 
and comfortable, and on such occasions the more the 
merrier; but my, how cold it was. We had extra 
blankets on, and next morning when we started out, 
some men were paying five cents for newspapers to put 
under their vests to keep warm. We saw quite a num- 
ber of deer and elk that morning, and it was still rain- 
ing. It began to clear about an hour after starting, and 
the high altitude bothered us a great deal. It seemed at 
times we could scarcely breathe, and one lady in our 
party was very sick. Leaving Yellowstone Lake to Syl- 
van Pass, the road passes through the valley of Pelican 
creek, along the south shore of Turbid Lake and gradu- 
ally ascends the mountains along the foot hills of Ava- 
lanche Peak to Sylvan Pass. Just before reaching the 
Pass, there is one of the finest panoramic views in the 
park. There, are fine camping grounds all through the 
park. The road from the lake to the Grand Canyon 
follows the valley of the Yellowstone the entire dis- 

107 



tance, seventeen miles. It passes Mud Geysers, Sulphur 
mountain, across Hayden valley, and within four miles 
of the National Park Game Enclosure, in the upper 
valley of Trout and Alum Creeks, where it is intended 
to protect specimens of all the large animals found in 
this region, such as buffalo, elk, deer, and mountain 
sheep. Mud Geysers are about five miles from the 
Lake hotel, and consist of several large craters filled with 
blue pasty mud, emitting odors far from agreeable. The 
mud volcano at the base of the cliff throws out a lead 
colored mass of mud, resembling soft mortar, very re- 
pulsive, but at the same time fascinating. The most vio- 
lent eruptions witnessed occurred in the summer of 1898. 
The mud plastered trees in the vicinity are an evidence 
of those terrific explosions. Hayden Valley extends 
from Mud Geyser to Alum Creek along the Yellowstone 
and west from the river to Mary Mountain. It is the 
largest valley in the reservation, and a great place for 
game, being protected on the north and west by a heavily 
timbered range. Sulphur mountain consists of a group 
of hills, each about 150 feet high, from which a fine 
view is obtained. Large blocks of rocks are scattered 
about in which can be seen a large amount of sulphur. 
The fumes arising are very disagreeable. The chief 
attraction is a large boiling spring. The road from Sul- 
phur mountain to Canyon hotel soon joins the main road 
along the river, passes over the rolling country and along 
the banks of the Yellowstone nearly to the Upper Falls. 
The magnificent Grand Canyon bridge over the Yellow- 
stone river, at the head of the rapids, above the Upper 
Falls affords visitors a fine view of the Grand Canyon 
from the opposite side. Here is also a footpath to the 

108 



foot of the great falls, where Artistic Point is located, 
so-called from being the position selected by Mr. Thomas 
Moran from which to paint his celebrated picture now 
hanging in the nation's capitol at Washington. The 
Upper Falls have a perpendicular drop of 140 feet. A 
quarter of a mile below, it takes another leap of 360 
feet, called the Lower or Great Falls, Cascade Falls 
are below the bridge which spans the creek, and from 
a ladder at Grotts Creek can be plainly seen. A short 
distance beyond Cascade Creek the road passes a point 
from which the first glimpse of the Grand Canyon is 
obtained. Inspiration Point, three miles distant, can be 
plainly seen. Following the foot trail the tourist soon 
stands upon a natural platform of rock upon the very 
edge of the Canyon, overlooking the awful plunge, at 
which point the river, some 250 feet in width a short 
distance above, narrows to just seventy- four feet, and 
while the view from here is grand, the best view is ob- 
tained from Point Lookout and Red Rock Point. Look- 
out is over 1200 feet above the river, and the driveway 
follows the canyon as near the edge as possible for three 
miles to Inspiration Point, being 1500 feet above the river. 
Looking down the stream the view of the canyon is es- 
pecially fine. Beside the road may be seen a large boul- 
der of granite, a most interesting relic of glacial deposit, 
said by geologists to have been there during the ice pe- 
riod. We passed by the road to Canyon Hotel to view 
the Grand Canyon, then back to the hotel for luncheon, 
dinner, and lodging. The day was very cold and dreary, 
and there was always a group near the radiators. We 
sat a good part of the afternoon near one looking out 
doors, watching the people coming and going, for after 

109 



luncheon a great many walked back to the Canyon and 
down the long stairs to obtain another view, and such 
looking creatures when they came back, almost blown 
to pieces. The steps number 494 leading to the lower 
falls. 

All through the park we met people travelling in the 
opposite direction, also some camping out, and wagons 
with stoves in, and all the necessary outfit for camping 
purposes. There were signs at different points on which 
were printed, " Good camps here." We saw quite a 
few parties unloading, making fires and all full of fun ; 
we always saluted and made some funny remark, so 
did they. One day we saw a large bear running along 
and up the hill, with some of the camp supplies in his 
mouth, being rapidly pursued. It was quite amusing 
to the onlookers; but not so to the owners of the sup- 
plies. I do not think I would sleep much if I knew 
bears were prowling around, yet I think camping must 
be fine sport. The Wylie camps look very clean and 
inviting as we pass them, and are stationed all through 
the park. The tents at all Wylie camps are of three 
uniform sizes, the most popular one having four rooms, 
two on each side of a six foot hallway. All of the 
tents have wood heaters in which the camp boys build 
fires cool mornings and evenings. The meals are well 
cooked and are served family style in large permanent 
dining tents. The forty dollar ticket covers both camp 
accommodation and staging. At night the camp fire, with 
singing, corn popping, and good stories passes many 
pleasant evenings. The season for opening is June 15, 
and closes September 15. This day we saw seven 
deers, at one time, two at either side of the stage as 

110 



we passed, never moving at our approach ; but kept right 
on eating. After dinner we bundled ourselves up and 
went to the top of the hill, back of the hotel, to see the 
bears. At the top of the hill as you look ahead and 
down, there is a large open space where they throw 
all the refuse from the hotel, then the large white birds 
come and eat and disappear, when finally you see Mr. 
Bruin come wabbling along, he looks so large and 
clumsy. In a little while another one came out, and 
then another with two little cubs. They do not seem 
the least bit fierce, and at the slightest noise, they run 
away. Grand Canyon Hotel is one thousand feet above 
the lower falls. The hotel is modern throughout, and 
many interesting features can be visited from this 
point. As we arrived at the hotel a young woman of 
our party came toward me, saying she and her friend 
had been assigned the same room with my aunt and I, 
and she seemed quite ruffled. She asked if we would 
mind changing, to which I replied certainly not; but 
we did not like the arrangement any more than she, 
and would put up with anything in reason, rather than 
complain and find fault, for those in charge had their 
heart and hands full to please some people. At any 
rate we exchanged, and had two of our own party in- 
stead, so everybody was satisfied. Next morning was 
still cold and dismal, and the roads very muddy and 
heavy, hard work for the poor horses. We left the 
hotel at 7:30 for Norris Basin, a twelve-mile drive, 
mostly through a forest. The road passes over the 
" Divide " separating the Yellowstone from the Mis- 
souri at an altitude of more than 8000 feet. Along this 
road are the twin trees, also can be seen Mt. Washburn, 

111 



which has an elevation of 10,388 feet above sea level. 
It is the highest mountain in the reservation, from which 
is a fine view. It is about ten miles from Mt. Wash- 
burn to Tower Falls, and three miles from the falls to 
Yancey's. The petrified trees are one and a half miles 
from Yancey's, and are reached by an easy trail. They 
are the only specimens of petrified trees to be found in 
the park, standing in their natural positions. Yancey's 
place is eighteen miles from Monmouth Hot Springs, 
and has excellent camp grounds. Arriving at Norris 
for luncheon, there was the same rush, everybody 
hungry, and I guess dry. The lunch was very fine. 
After luncheon a great many of us left the hotel ahead 
of the coaches, walking through Norris Basin accom- 
panied by a guide who explains all points of interest, 
meeting our coaches near the Monarch Geysers. This re- 
gion, called the Gibbon Geyser Basin, was discovered in 
1875 by Colonel P. W. Norris, then superintendent of the 
park. It covers an area of six square miles, and is a very 
interesting portion, being the highest geyser basin in the 
park. The impression on nearing the basin is of a 
manufacturing place, the terrible noise and rumbling 
and hissing of steam, and very unpleasant odors, make 
one feel cautious where they tread. The Congress, 
Constant, Black Growler, Monarch, New Crater and 
Emerald pool are the chief attractions. Many of the 
craters are thinly crusted, and must be gone over care- 
fully. Mr. Vincent told us one never knows what is 
going to happen in Yellowstone Park; but I am thank- 
ful to say we escaped all injury. Starting out again 
the roadway passes along the base of Obsidian Cliff for 
1000 feet. The greater part of this mineral glass is 

112 



jet black, and quite opaque, with traces of red and yel- 
low rising 250 feet above the road, glistening like a 
mirror with the sun's rays. The roadway along its 
base was constructed in a very novel way, and with 
much difficulty. Great fires were built around the huge 
blocks of glass, which, when expanded, were suddenly 
cooled by dashing water upon them, resulting in shat- 
tering the blocks into small fragments. There being 
no other exposed ridge of obsidian in the Rocky Moun- 
tains, and this material being more desirable than flint 
for the manufacture of arrow heads, it was once a 
famous resort for all tribes of Indians, who congregated 
here in great numbers, and was a sacred place to all 
oi them. Chips of obsidian and partly finished ar- 
row heads are found throughout the park, at places 
occupied by Indians as summer camps. Opposite is 
Beaver Lake. The road continues along Beaver Lake, 
which is one mile wide and a quarter of a mile long, 
in which several beaver dams are constructed, each hav- 
ing a fall of from two to four feet. A beaver house 
still inhabited is near the west shore of the lake. Twin 
Lakes are passed, just a trifle apart, one deep blue, the 
other deep green, also Mineral Lake and Frying Pan. 
Golden Gate, four miles from Mammoth Hot Springs, 
is one of the most picturesque points in the park. It 
is a rugged pass between the base of the lofty eleva- 
tions of Bunsen Peak and the southern extremity of 
Terrace mountain, through which flows the west branch 
of Gardiner river. The sides of these rocky walls 
which rise 20 to 300 feet above the roadway, are cov- 
ered with a yellow moss. The pillars at the east en- 
trance, twelve feet high, were originally a part of the 

lis 



canyon wall. The construction of this roadway and 
viaduct, scarce a mile in length, was the most expensive 
and difficult piece of road building yet encountered by 
the government engineers. Rustic Falls at the west 
end of Golden Gate is very pretty, and is fed by moun- 
tain snows and springs along the base of the hills, a 
mile or so beyond. Between Golden Gate and the 
springs you pass Silver Gate and the Koodoos, on a 
gradual ascent, and in less than three miles you have 
reached an elevation of a thousand feet. The road 
passes through the Koodoos, a wild strange region, and 
many theories are advanced as to their origin, the most 
plausible being an immense quantity of deposit or for- 
mation that was carried there in solution by the hot 
waters of Mammoth Springs, leaving honey-combed 
caves beneath, and the present Koodoos region is sim- 
ply where the mountain has caved in, filling the cavern 
below. They cover an area of about one square mile. 
In the midst of the Koodoos the road makes a sharp 
turn, passing between great blocks of limestone that 
rise abruptly fully seventy-five feet high, and this is 
called Silver Gate. It requires fully two hours to visit 
all the prominent springs and terraces at Mammoth 
Springs; but passing along the roadway to the hotel, 
you have an excellent view of the terraces, which have 
beautiful colorings. They are colored by a growth 
which thrives in hot water. When the waters change 
their courses, this jelly-like plant dies, to dry up and 
be blown away. Bright shades of red, yellow, and 
green appear. Around the steam vents sulphur is often 
found; but the coloring of the terraces is due to the 
vegetable velvet. The Algoe-Kyman terrace is located 

114 



near the hotel, very brilliantly colored. Liberty Cap, 
an extinct hot spring cone, at the foot of terrace moun- 
tain near the road, is fifty-two feet high, and twenty- 
feet in diameter at its base. Minerva terrace is a mass 
of deposit forty feet in height, covering an area of 
nearly three-fourths of an acre, with a hot spring on 
the summit twenty feet in diameter. Articles of iron, 
glass, or any hard substance placed where the water 
runs over them, are soon covered with crystal white 
deposit. During periods of activity the basins are 
delicately colored, from the lightest shades of yellow 
at the top, to the bright orange at the base, the pools 
being filled with transparent blue water. A climb of 
lo feet is necessary to reach Jupiter terrace. The two 
large springs of boiling water, fully loo feet in dia- 
meter, supply the main terrace, seen from the driveway. 
Devil's Kitchen is the crater of an extinct hot spring, 
and can be entered with safety. Through a small open- 
ing some six or eight feet in diameter you descend a 
ladder into the kitchen. The peculiar damp and heated 
atmosphere of the interior produces a queer sensation, 
and you immediately desire to be in the fresh air. 
When the Devil's Kitchen was first found, numerous 
bones of wild animals were found in the cave, and it 
was alive with flying bats. Fort Yellowstone is situ- 
ated at Mammoth Hot Springs. It is a large United 
States cavalry post, whose commanding officer is super- 
intendent of the park. Stations can be seen all through 
the park, the duties of the soldiers being to protect the 
various objects of interest, that no poachers enter, and 
to prevent spreading camp fires. Several scouts are 
employed by the government who roam over the entire 

115 



area. Arriving at Mammoth Hotel we were shown 
our room, which was immense. It had three full-sized 
beds in it, three washstands, a dresser, half a dozen 
chairs, and a rocker, with ample room for moving 
about. When we entered the room the young lady 
who refused to room with us at the Canyon Hotel and 
her friend were quite busy arranging their hair, and 
apparently at home. We left our grips in the room^ 
and walked out to find their companion. We found 
her and she said two of our party had been assigned to 
room with her. I said never mind. I will soon fix 
that up. I hunted around until I found our two 
friends, then went back to our room and asked the two 
young ladies to exchange, which they cheerfully did, 
and everybody was satisfied. We had six of our own 
party in the room, and on retiring we had any amount 
of fun, which can only be appreciated by those in- 
terested. There was quite a large orchestra in the 
hotel on a raised platform. After dinner the musicians 
played some fine selections for about an hour, then dance 
music until ten-thirty. A great many people were at- 
tired in full evening dress, some looked stunning and 
grand, while others were gaudy and . conspicuous. Some 
of our party spent the evening at the Military head- 
quarters, which proved to be very enjoyable. The 
hotel IS in quite a valley, and to look down and 
around from the fourth story, is beautiful mountains 
and terraces all around. The German couple in our 
car were put way up in the attic, and such a fuss as 
she made. He was going back and forth, up and 
down, trying to secure a room on the ground floor. 

116 



He finally succeeded, for down they came, she first, 
her face very red and angry, he following meekly with 
the grip. Those of us who knew the circumstances 
could not help laughing; but it was a shame to put 
them way up there. He was a great big man, and she 
short and fat, hard work for both of them to climb 
stairs. They seemed to be blest with this world's 
goods, for they managed to get whatever they wanted, 
and bought very expensive presents. The next morn- 
ing we left Mammoth Hotel, early, as we had forty 
miles to cover, stopping again at Norris for luncheon. 
The greater part of the road we had been over the 
previous day. The new part mostly forests. We 
passed what they called the knotted trees. Two trees 
grown together and twisted in all sorts of shapes; there 
was quite a number of them. The day was very warm 
and the sun shone brightly. Another lady and myself 
sat up with the driver for sixteen miles right to the 
station. It was fine, and such a broad open view, 
which made up for most of the week's unpleasantness. 
We had as much fun along the road, making funny 
remarks, singing, and annoying one another all we 
could, to keep warm and make things lively. 

Yellowstone Park is located in the northwestern 
corner of Wyoming, with a small strip in Montana and 
Idaho, in the heart of the Rocky Mountains. The park 
is 53 miles east and west, and 6i miles north and south. 
Three of the largest rivers in the United States, the 
Missouri, Yellowstone and Columbia, have their source 
in Yellowstone Park. The geysers of this region out- 
class anything of the kind in the known world. The 

117 



Grand Canon of the Yellowstone, ten miles long, with 
an average depth of 1200 feet, is the most brilliantly 
colored landscape in existence. The great range of 
mountains that extend from Canada to Mexico, divid- 
ing the waters that flow to the Pacific from those that 
flow to the Atlantic, is called the Continental divide. 
It enters the park a short distance south of the western 
entrance to the park at Yellowstone. It passes close 
to Yellowstone Lake and makes its exit near the south- 
east corner. John Colter was the first white man to 
see any part of what is now the park. He was in that 
region in 1807. James Bridges and Joseph L. Meek, 
fur trappers, were there in the 30's. Warren A. Ferris 
saw the geysers in 1834 and wrote the first published 
account of them. Capt. De Lacy explored a part of 
the country in 1863. Folsom and Cook were there in 
1869, the Washburn-Doane party in 1870 and Dr. Hay- 
den in 1 87 1 -2. The park was established by the gov- 
ernment March i, 1872. The government has entire 
control of the park, and within recent years has spent 
$1,000,000 in improvements in the park, among which 
are the fine lava arch entrance at Gardiner, costing 
$10,000, and dedicated by President Roosevelt April 
24, 1903. The new concrete viaduct at Golden Gate, 
costing $10,000, and a fine concrete and steel bridge of 
artistic design across the Yellowstone River and rapids 
at an expense of $20,000. Mammoth Hot Springs 
is the largest and most important place in the park. 
Here all authority centers. From Gardiner entrance 
to Mammoth Hot Springs you follow the Gardiner 
river to Eagle Nest Crag, one of the most interesting 
sights of the tour, also the mouth of boiling river is 

118 



passed, and the beautiful Gardiner Canon. We were 
not over this route, as we came in at the Western en- 
trance, and as we arrived at our train, the porters and 
all in charge gave us a hearty welcome to our little flats. 
Our porter had American flags over our doors. 



119 



SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH 

Arriving at Salt Lake City we boarded the sight see- 
ing cars, where two men who did not belong to our 
party got in next to me. I told them it was a special, 
he looked at me and said special nothing! In a few 
minutes someone else told them it was a special, and 
they said they were special too, finally Mr. Vincent 
came along to see if we were all there, and when he 
saw the two strangers, they jumped off lively. As 
soon as everyone was aboard off we went. The car 
starts at Main Street, and turning the corner, you are 
in a financial and banking district, along first South 
Street, passing the principal market places, also the ruins 
of Salt Lake's pioneer first class hotel, known in the 
early days as the Townsend House, and later as the 
Continental. In the days when the Wells-Fargo stage 
was the only Pullman which crossed the plains, this 
famous hostelry sheltered some of America's noted men, 
also foreign nobility has rested its head upon the Town- 
send pillow. The memorable journey of Horace 
Greeley, found both in history and fiction, included a 
stopping at this hotel. Vice-President Colfax twice 
made it his headquarters and in 1869 delivered an ad- 
dress from its balcony. The Knutsford Hotel is one 
of the important stopping places in Utah, and is built 

120 



upon the site where the first attempt at irrigation was 
carried out. From here can be had a gHmpse of the 
great Wasatch range, from which so many milHons of 
gold and silver have been taken. It is from the can- 
yons of these mountains that the supply of water comes 
which beautifies Salt Lake City, and produces the crops 
for which the valley is noted. Just to the north of the 
highest peak is located one of the world's greatest min- 
ing camps, known as Park City. We pass the Oquirrh 
school, capable of accommodating looo pupils, the name 
being derived from the famous mountains to the west 
noted for their immense rich mines, of which the Ophir 
mine is one of the thirty great ones. Along the road 
may be seen dwellings of adobe, which are rapidly giv- 
ing way to more modern buildings. In building ma- 
terial Salt Lake is very fortunate, all classes of wood 
and stone, including marble and onyx, being found 
within a short distance of the city. We pass the larg- 
est playground in Utah, containing one hundred acres, 
having been laid out by Brigham Young. Near the 
centre is a great adobe building, the first flour mill in 
Utah, erected by Brigham Young in 1852, and lately 
restored and preserved as a landmark by the city 
council. Near the park is a plain two-story brick dwell- 
ing surrounded by a pretty lawn and shaded by poplar 
and cotton wood. This is the birth place of Maud 
Adams. Brigham Young with the pioneers first entered 
Salt Lake valley in 1847, that same day the present 
site of Salt Lake City was reached. The first plans for 
the construction of Utah's great irrigation were put 
into efifect under Brigham Young's direction, and seed 
potatoes brought across the plains prepared for plant- 

121 



ing. The County House and City Hall stand in the 
centre of a ten-acre park. The building is one of the 
most beautiful in America, being constructed of sand- 
stone with onyx trimmings. The summit of the tower 
is 250 feet above the ground, topped by a massive fig- 
ure of Columbia. Below it is the largest chime-clock 
in the western country, installed at a cost of $500,000. 
The total cost of the building exceeded $1,000,000. 
We turn into Main Street again, passing many handsome 
residences, among which was the Walker Bros., occu- 
pying a full square. Entering the business quarter we 
are in the midst of large commercial buildings. The 
national bank of the republic is the strongest of Salt 
Lake City's financial institutions. Through its fifteen 
years of existence it has pursued a policy of advance- 
ment that has established it foremost in the field of 
progress. Founded in 1890, becoming a United States 
depository for national funds, the connections of this 
bank have been carried into every principal city of 
America and Europe. The next turn brought us into 
what is termed the Mormon territory, on the right is 
located that famous mercantile institution known as 
Zion's Cooperative Mercantile institution, which in real- 
ity is the original among American department stores, 
and is the most important commercial establishment in 
the Rocky Mountain region. It employs 500 people, 
and has over 600 stockholders residing in all parts of 
the world. With a capital and surplus of $1,800,000 
its annual sales are about $5,000,000. Turning at the 
base of the monument we are in the historic ground of 
the great Mormon Temple, the second most costly reli- 
gious edifice in America. The design is a grandly im- 

U2 



pressive structure. Its cost reaching $3,469,118. Its 
cornerstone was laid in April, 1852, and it was dedi- 
cated on April 6, 1893, which event brought the largest 
gathering ever known to Salt Lake City. Before its 
dedication non-Mormons were allowed to visit the 
Temple; but since this event no one save Mormons in 
good standing are allowed to enter its doors. The 
Temple length including towers is 186^ feet, its width 
99 feet, the height of rock on central tower facing east 
210 feet, on central western tower 204 feet. The 
wall is 107^ feet high. Its foundation is 16 feet 
in depth with the same thickness, its walls to the first 
floor are 9 feet in thickness, the remainder 6 feet in 
thickness with buttress of 7 feet. The Temple's en- 
tire area is 4850 feet. Surmounting the central east- 
ern tower is a gilded statue of the angel Moroni, sound- 
ing with his trumpet the Mormon gospel to the world. 
Upon the face of this tower are set gilded ornaments, 
representing the sun, moon and stars. Each of the 
corner towers contains a solid granite stairway 6 feet 
wide, from its bottom to the top of the walls. There 
are 800 steps, each of them costing 100 dollars. In the 
earlier days of its construction, it required four days' 
work from four yoke of oxen to draw one stone from 
the quarry to the Temple site, which was replaced by 
a railroad in 1873, making transportation much easier. 
There is also the famous Tabernacle, surmounted by a 
dome shaped roof 250 feet in length, 150 feet wide, 
and 80 feet high, erected without pillar or post. This 
building seats about 8000 people, and the general meet- 
ings of the Mormon church are held here. The 
acoustics of the Tabernacle are remarkable, so faint a 

123 



sound as the falling of a pin being heard at a distance 
of 250 feet. We were all up in the gallery and heard 
the pin drop plainly, also heard the man whisper. Within 
the Tabernacle is one of the greatest pipe organs in 
the world and the finest in cost and tone. Its organist, 
Mr. J. J. McClellan, is a native of Utah, and his accom- 
paniments lead a choir of 500 voices directed by Evan 
Stevens. Besides there is a juvenile choir of 1500 
voices. The church authorities decided to have this 
organ up to the times, and after placing new mechanism 
in the organ, it was completed about five years ago, and 
is considered the finest in organ building. The front 
towers have an altitude of 48 feet, and the dimensions 
of the organ are 30x33 feet. It has no stops and 
accessories, and contains a total of over 5000 pipes, 
ranging in length from one-quarter of an inch to thirty- 
two feet. It comprises five complete organs. Solo, 
swell, great, choir and pedal, in other words, four key- 
boards in addition to the pedals. There is no color, 
shade or tint of tone that cannot be produced upon it. 
The organ is blown by a ten-horse-power electric motor, 
and two gangs of feeders furnish 5000 cubic feet of 
air a minute, when it is being played full. The organist 
is seated many feet from the instrument, which places 
him well among the choir. Regular public services are 
held in the Tabernacle Sunday afternoons, and during the 
summer season free organ recitals every day at twelve 
o'clock. We heard one and the pieces were beautiful, 
one especially made you feel as if you were ascending 
to heaven. The Mormons have no professional or paid 
preachers; but the presiding officer at any meeting calls 
members of the congregation, frequently without previ- 

124 



ous notice, to address the people. Every member is 
expected to understand its doctrines and be prepared to 
expound them and to exhort his fellow members. The 
women conduct their own services, do their own speak- 
ing, and have their own choirs. The members of their 
General Boards travel constantly, visiting the branches 
and missions, and founding their organizations every- 
where, even extending to England, Germany, Scandi- 
navia, Australia, Canada, Mexico and to the Islands of 
the sea. Women have full suffrage in Utah. To serv- 
ices held in the Tabernacle all seats are free, and no 
contributions taken up. Opposite the Temple stands 
the tithing yard, where all faithful saints are supposed 
to pay one-tenth of their earnings and profits to the 
church every year. The roof of the Tabernacle now 
has a metallic covering. It was erected between 1865- 
67 before the railway reached Utah, and the building 
material had to be hauled by ox teams from the Missouri 
river. It was for this reason that wooden pins were 
used in place of heavy nails. The self supporting roof 
is a remarkable piece of engineering. It stands upon 
pillars of red sandstone, which stand ten to twelve 
feet apart in the whole circumference of the building, 
and the pillars support wooden arches ten feet in thick- 
ness and spanning 150 feet. These arches are put 
together with wooden pins, there being no nails or iron 
of any kind used in the frame work. Utah's State 
House is to be erected on Capitol Hill, on which there 
are many handsome residences. From the location to 
be occupied by the State House is a most beautiful view. 
To the west lies Salt Lake, before you the city, and way 
beyond the verdant valley through which flows the river 

125 



Jordan, and to the beholder there is no question why 
the Mormons call their valley like the Holy Land, for 
geographically it is its duplicate. As we ride along 
near the base of the mountain you observe an immense 
letter U cemented in on the mountain side. The lec- 
turer told us that once every year there is a certain num- 
ber of students selected to clean the letter, by giving 
it a coat of whitewash, and if any refuse, they are 
whitewashed. On the way to Warm Springs you 
pass a bit of the old wall which once protected the city 
from outside attack. Originally this wall was twenty 
miles long, six to eight feet high, and paralleled outside 
by a deep trench. It was necessary in the early days, 
for the Indians made desperate by the attacks of many 
emigrants crossing the plains toward California sought 
revenge from the Mormons. Brigham Young's policy 
of feed the Indians, don't fight them, finally prevailed, 
and brought peace between the red and white men of 
Utah. Utah's state flower is the Sego Lily, a flower 
with three pure white petals, streaked with brown 
in the centre. It grew profusely in the bench land 
near where the pioneers first settled. During the 
months of scarcity and hardships, those who had 
food put their families on rations, while those with- 
out, or had little, dug sego and thistle and cooked and 
ate rawhide to eke out their scanty store. Utah 
belonged to Mexico until 1848, when it was ceded to 
the United States by the treaty of Guadaloupe Hidalgo. 
The present confines of the State measure 345 miles in 
length by 285 miles in width. It is mountainous 
throughout, but is traversed from north to south by 
a chain of fertile valleys. The altitude is from 4200 

126 



to 14,000 feet above sea level. West of the Wasatch 
range is the great desert region in which lies the dead 
sea of America. The State emblem is the Beehive. 
The Bee Hive being one of Brigham Young's residences. 
He had twenty-one wives. I have a card with all their 
names and pictures on. Utah's best crop is a post card 
covered with infant's heads. The present confines of 
the State of Utah were explored by Spaniards in the 
sixteenth century. It was not until the latter part of 
the eighteenth century and beginning of the nineteenth 
that trappers and fur traders wandered through the 
Wasatch mountains on their way to the Pacific coast. 
James Bridges came to the shores of the Great Salt 
Lake in 1824; but no permanent settlement was made 
in Utah until the coming of the Mormon pioneers under 
Brigham Young in 1847. The original band of Latter 
Day Saints consisted of 147 persons; but by 1850 the 
population of the territory was 11,000. The people had 
a hard struggle for existence. In 1862 the overland 
telegraph was completed to Salt Lake City, and the 
first message flashed over the wires from Utah was to 
Hon. J. Wade, President of the Pacific Telegraph Co., 
and signed by Brigham Young. It read, " Utah has not 
seceded ; but is firm for the constitution and laws of our 
happy country." Never in their history did the Mor- 
mons intend isolating themselves from the world. In 
January, 1896, Utah was admitted as the forty-fifth 
state of the Union. Mr. Frederick Dellenbaugh of 
New York in his " Breaking of the Wilderness " says : 
" It must be acknowledged that the Mormons were 
wilderness breakers of a high quality. They not only 
broke it; but they kept it broken; and instead of the 

127 



gin mill and gambling hell, as cornerstones of their 
progress, and as examples to the natives of white man*s 
superiority, they planted orchards, gardens, farms, 
school houses and peaceful homes. There is to-day no 
part of the United States where human life is safer 
than in the land of Mormons, no place where there is 
less lawlessness. A people who have accomplished so 
much that is good, who have endured danger, privation 
and suffering, have much in them that is commendable 
and good." 

Population of Salt Lake City about 100,000. 

We were scheduled to dine at the Kenyon Hotel, but 
being overcrowded we were sent to a restaurant, called 
the Cottage Inn, a few doors below, where we were 
served very bountifully. Just as we were nicely seated, 
the musicians in the balcony played the B. P. O. E. 
and nearly all hands sang it, and just as we finished they 
played Auld Lang Syne. After luncheon we walked 
to the depot for the train that took us to Salt Lake. 
A half hour's ride, open cars, very high steps, and 
screened in on both sides with heavy canvas curtains. 
No journey is complete to Salt Lake City without vis- 
iting Great Salt Lake, which is seventy miles long, 
thirty miles wide, and an average depth of ten feet. 
When it is considered that the waters of this lake are 
seven times more dense than the ocean, it is not difficult 
to understand the truth of the oft repeated assertion, 
that the human body is unsinkable in its waters. A 
great many of our party went in, and we had great 
sport. Some of the men wanted to take us out and 
let us float ; but we preferred staying by the stairs. For 
a couple of days every time I ran my fingers through 

128 



my hair I could feel the salt. We had no facilities for 
shampooing, so had to brush it out the best we could. 
This bathing resort is called Saltair. Its central feature 
is an immense pavilion in Moorish style of architecture, 
to which is attached the bath houses and other build- 
ings of the resort, forming an immense crescent, its 
concave side opening toward the lake, with its horns 
extending to a point 4000 feet from the shore. This 
structure, which cost upwards of $350,000, contains upon 
its floor an immense restaurant and cafe, and is sur- 
rounded upon all sides by every means of recreation 
common to a resort of its nature. The principal floor 
of this great pavilion is 1200 feet in length, and 355 
feet wide, covered by a vast arched roof. Its floor is 
made specially for dancing, and can accommodate 1000 
couples at a time. From the observatory in the dome, 
you have a splendid view of the lake. They say the 
sunsets are glorious, the crimson and gold of the 
sky making pictures no one can forget. The waters of 
the Great Salt Lake are furnishing about 40,000 tons 
of salt a year, supplying most of the States west of the 
Missouri river. We spent the greater part of the after- 
noon at Salt Lake, and enjoyed the trip immensely. 
Arriving in the city we visited some of the large stores, 
and while conversing with an old gentleman he told 
us he had come from New York State with his son 
seven years ago, just for luck, and that his son is now 
principal of one of the schools. They like the city very 
much ; neither of them are Mormons. And you must not 
think all Utah people are Mormons. No, indeed, there 
are any amount of all denominations centered there. 
There are 351 canals in Utah, irrigating 632,000 acres. 

129 



Different kinds of crops growing in different parts of the 
State. 

We were all on board the train which left Salt Lake 
City at 6:30 just in time, some of us waiting until the 
last minute ; but we certainly had a beautiful and interest- 
ing day. Most of us had a good night's sleep and were 
up very early to watch the wonderful views of the 
Rockies. 



130 



GLENWOOD SPRINGS, COLORADO 

As the train stopped at Glen wood Springs, we jumped 
off. A young girl on horseback was crossing the bridge 
high above us, when some of our boys called out. Ah 
there ! She returned the salute by waving her hand, and 
some one else said, Oh you kiddo ! when she replied, we 
westerners do not like that expression, and the boys 
turned around saying stung! The surroundings at the 
station were very pretty. Glenwood Springs is the queen 
of Colorado health and pleasure resorts. Here are hot 
springs larger than any others in the world, outside of 
Colorado, whose waters are known cures for many of 
the inner and outer ailments of the human system. Here 
is the great swimming pool, fed by a hot spring, where 
the sufferers from rheumatism may have a good time 
swimming about in the open air, and at the same time 
be absorbing medicine. The things that make Colorado 
delightful, the scenery, the sunshine, the cool air, are 
as much the property of the poorest visitor as of the 
richest millionaire. The wonders are all accessible, most 
of them being seen from the car windows. The climate 
makes camp life especially attractive. The lack of rain, 
the absence of mosquitoes and venomous reptiles, the 
abundance of wood, water and grass, make camping a 
delight in the Rocky mountains. Hotel Colorado, just 

131 



completed at a cost of $350,000, makes a fine summer 
resort. It is built of peach blow colored stone and 
Roman brick. Its dimensions are 224 feet across the 
front and 260 feet from front to rear. It is a town of 
1500 inhabitants, and is situated where the Roaring 
Fork and Grand Rivers meet, on a sloping plateau, shut 
in on three sides by steep mountains. The altitude is 
5600 feet. For days and weeks the sky remains blue 
w^ithout a cloud. From Glenwood Springs we pass the 
grand canyon of the Grand river, which we ride along 
for miles. The Grand is the mightiest of the Colorado 
streams. At Salida, a pretty town in a wide valley, the 
traveller stands at the very foot of the Continental Di- 
vide. The train follows close to the water, turning 
and winding all sorts of ways. We finally reach the 
canyon of Eagle Pass, famous for the Red Cliffs, still 
producing gold, silver and copper. Miners' cabins are 
seen at intervals. The traffic is so heavy that there is 
a track on either side of the river, which is very narrow. 
We pass the Mount of the Holy Cross. Far up on the 
mountain side appears an immense cross, as though 
chiselled out of marble. This is caused by two deep 
canons crossing each other at right angles, which are 
filled with ice and snow throughout the year. From 
Eagle River we come to Tennessee Pass along a fifty 
mile view of the highest part of the Colorado Rockies. 
Among the famous canons of Colorado, none is more 
widely known than the Royal Gorge. The great granite 
cliffs tower higher and higher until at this point they 
are 2600 feet high, a half mile of overhanging rock, the 
sides so close together that the sun only penetrates in 
spots, and the river and railroad can barely find room to 

132 



pass. These great walls enclose the road and roaring 
river for eight miles. Usually passengers get off the 
train and stand on the river wall until the train moves a 
short distance away, then we walk along through the 
gorge. Sometimes they put on an open observation 
car, which affords a fine view. All through this region 
is wonderful. There is also the famous hanging bridge, 
built by the Denver & Rio Grande, under which the train 
passes. Some time after we came back from our tour, 
there was a great flood at the Royal Gorge. The height 
of the water at this point will be appreciated by any- 
one who has ever been there, when it is stated that the 
river was level with the tracks of the hanging bridge. 
At Canon City a steel bridge was washed away, and 
landslides blocked the tracks along the Arkansas River, 
delaying over a thousand passengers. Just as we left 
the Royal Gorge and all the wonders of the mountain 
region, it began to grow dark. Most of us seemed to 
be in a state of stupor all day. I think the wonderful 
views awed us, or else our Yellowstone and Salt Lake 
trips were too much for us. The Gunnison is one of the 
great streams of the western slope, drawing from a thou- 
sand mountain rills, it throws through its canons an 
enormous volume of water of crystal purity, and cold 
as the snow from which it has just flowed. September 
23, 1909, the President of the United States visited the 
Uncompahgre Valley, and personally opened the gates 
of the great tunnel, and turned the flow of the Gunni- 
son River into the new channel, where for all time to 
come it will flow prosperity and fertility to the people. 
By the enterprise, wealth and energy of a great govern- 
ment, a whole river has been drained from the granite 

1S3 



bound channel in which it has flowed almost since time 
began, and carried through six miles of tunnel 2500 feet 
below the granite crest, to the head of one of the most 
beautiful and fertile valleys which lie under the smiling 
sun of Colorado. The Gunnison river is one of the larg- 
est streams in Colorado. Its myriad heads drain a thou- 
sand square miles of the highest portion of the Con- 
tinental Divide. Its valleys are narrow, with but little 
demand upon its waters for irrigation. Descending in 
ever deepening gorges, it finally foams and plunges to- 
ward the sea in the Black Canon, one of the most mag- 
nificent gorges in the world. For thirty miles the Gunni- 
son and the Uncompahgre Rivers, which join at Delta, 
flow side by side. In the spring of 1910 the water will 
be flowing through the tunnel and on the land, and from 
that time on drought will be forever banished from the 
Uncompahgre Valley, which is situated in the very heart 
of the Rocky Mountains. We were due at Colorado 
Springs at six p. m., but it was about ten p. m. when we 
arrived there. We were all very much disappointed in 
not seeing the Garden of the Gods. On our arrival at 
Colorado Springs, we were to be given a ride to Mani- 
tou to see the wonders in the Garden of the Gods, and 
we had all planned to have our pictures taken on burro's 
by the balance rock, but it was only an illusion. In 
reality the Ute Indians owned Manitou. Then as now 
the gateway, guarded by its perpendicular portals more 
than three hundred feet straight up from the level plains, 
stood open. Everything in the Garden of the Gods is 
just as it was when the savages had possession. The 
trees, the lakes, Rainbow Falls, Cave of the Winds, Red 
Canyon, Crystal Park, Glen Eyrie, are just as they were 

134 



then, only unnamed. They say nothing in the modern 
world is ever done until a railroad comes. Yet there 
has been some changes. The Manitou Grand Caverns 
have been discovered and opened, and wagon roads have 
been graded in all directions. Some one has said that 
Colorado is the Switzerland of America, but a great many 
say it should be reversed. Those who have been there 
can judge for themselves. History, tradition and fash- 
ion have cast their spell over the Alps. At Davos in 
Switzerland the invalid can only enjoy four and a half 
hours' sunshine in the shortest days of winter, while at 
Colorado Springs they have eight hours. In early 
spring, as soon as the snow begins to melt, invalids are 
compelled to leave Davos, while at Colorado Springs 
they remain the entire year. Every variety of scenery 
is found in Colorado, and it never becomes monotonous. 
Variety is the striking characteristic of western scenery. 
Canons, peaks, and passes awe one with their grandeur, 
being easy of access, with no wide ocean to cross. Mar- 
shall Pass in Colorado is 10,850 feet above the sea and 
is climbed every day by the Denver & Rio Grande. The 
famous Georgetown Loop trip is traversed by the Colo- 
rado and Southern Railway. Thousands have seen it, 
and it still remains, especially to one who has no time 
to see the overpowering scenery in the interior, an expe- 
rience not to be left out. When Colorado was young 
it was a miner's wagon road over the range. 



135 



COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO 

Immediately on our arrival at Colorado Springs, we 
went to the hotel for dinner. A great many complained 
of the food ; which was in all probability due to our late 
arrival, for all good housekeepers know when they have 
prepared a meal to be sei-ved at six, and no one puts 
in an appearance until four hours afterward, that the 
result is very unsatisfactory to the cook. Everyone 
who has been there knows the Antlers Hotel is a beauti- 
ful building, and first-class in all its appointments ; mag- 
nificently furnished, representing an outlay of $i,ooo,- 
ooo. The population of Colorado Springs is over 
30,000, being an ideal home city, and one of great pri- 
vate wealth, with broad streets and magnificent resi- 
dences. Pike's Peak and Cheyenne Mountain looming 
to the west. After dinner we bought some post cards 
of the city, being the best we could do, as it was too 
dark to see any of the beautiful surroundings, and being 
after eleven o'clock all the stores were closed. Not 
much like a Saturday night in New York; but we went 
to the Elks' Club house, just to say we had seen it, and 
on arriving there found it open. They have a beautiful 
building with a fine open court on the ground floor, which 
must be very attractive by daylight. On the floor above 
is the lodge room : they ask you to come in and sit down, 

136 



on the soft leather seats all around the room, then close 
the door and put out all the lights. By electricity they 
light up a large clock, then a large star in the centre 
of the room, next an oblong oval glass dome over the 
top of the centre gradually, until it grows brighter and 
brighter, showing all the beautiful coloring of the glass 
and finally the side lights around the room. It is a 
very beautiful and effective sight, all being so quietly 
done, you wonder what is coming next. Leaving the 
club house we went back to the train. There are several 
magnificent hotels in Colorado Springs, 2137 acres in 
public parks, and 112 miles of streets. A water supply 
costing about three and a half million dollars, forty-five 
miles of electric railway, an unequalled telephone sys- 
tem, seventeen costly school buildings, a public library 
costing $75,000; a handsome opera house and six clubs, 
sanatoriums, church edifices, three hospitals, and Colo- 
rado College (the oldest institution of its kind in the 
State, with over six hundred students and a handsome en- 
dowment), and six trunk lines of railroad. 

If so fortunate as to find a modest, vacant cottage 
of four or five rooms, the monthly rental is $15 to $35, 
unfurnished, and $30 to $75 furnished. Persons of long 
purses, requiring handsome homes, can obtain elaborately 
furnished villas of eight to twelve rooms, renting from 
$100 to $500 per month. 



137 



DENVER, COLORADO 

Sunday morning, August i, we woke up at Denver, 
where six autos were waiting to take us through the 
city, each one carrying twenty persons. The city is only 
fifty years old, and by the appearance of boulevards, 
parks, and beautiful homes, has grown rapidly. Broad- 
way is a boulevard seventy-five miles long, extending to 
Colorado Springs. We were in the largest artificial 
park, containing three hundred and eighty-four acres, in 
which we saw elk, deer, antelope, buffalo, and in the 
lake swans and ducks. In the centre of the lake is a 
stone platform, somewhat on the shape of the red cross, 
where the small boats land and passengers alight to take 
in the surrounding view: there are also beautiful palms 
and flowers. The Auditorium at Denver seats 13,000 
people and cost $550,000. The city covers an area of 
sixty square miles. State capitol building cost $3,600,- 
000. The dome is gold shingled, and the building con- 
tains the highly interesting collections of the State His- 
torical Society, and the Colorado World's Fair exhibit, 
which captured so many prizes. The new United States 
mint is worthy of mention, costing more than a million 
dollars. We rode about two hours in the autos, having 
a fine lecturer, who told us that Denver had twenty clubs, 
eight theatres, fourteen parks, twenty-five hospitals and 

138 



asylums, one hundred and eighty churches, Presbyterian 
being the largest in the city, and five daily papers. The 
elevation of Denver is 5200 feet, and the population is 
22,500. The autos stopped in front of a souvenir store 
which had opened its doors for our benefit. We made 
many purchases there, and those in charge of the store 
took twenty-five cents off of each article purchased. 
We had our pictures taken in the autos on the way out, 
which were finished when we came back. It was a very 
warm day, and as we were within a block of the station, 
saw a drug store, where we went in and had ice cream, 
then for the last time, back to our little home on the 
train. Colorado is a wonderful State for scenery, cov- 
ering 103,925 square miles. Of this vast area, as big 
as all New England, with Indiana added, two-thirds is 
mountains. The wonderful peaks of most mountain 
ranges might all be lost in the Colorado Rockies, whose 
heights range from 11,000 to 15,000 feet above the sea. 
Seen from afar off they seem like clouds. It is a strange 
country. The name means color, or go thou merrily 
with God. Colorado is first among the states and terri- 
tories of the Union producing precious metals. As time 
goes on, and I think of the wonderful views seen on the 
trip, they impress me so greatly that I hope some day 
to view them again. Some of the beautiful and famous 
peaks of Colorado have their lowest depths higher than 
the average height of the Alpine chain. It is an all-the- 
year cattle country at almost any height. Big trees grow 
10,000 feet above the sea, beautiful flowers and grasses 
are found at 11,000 feet, and the pines and firs are of 
fair size at 11,500 feet. In Colorado there are 260 
snow-born small streams ; but large enough to each have 

139 



a name. There are numerous small lakes, and sixty- 
three rivers. Beside some seventy peaks that are still 
unnamed, there are one hundred and fifty towering 
domes, that have names given, and amidst all this, you 
casually come upon some beautiful nook, and wonder if 
there are any more such places. 



140 



HOMEWARD BOUND 

Our train left Denver at i p. m. It was the first 
Sunday in all our trip that we had been on the train. 
For a little while every one was very talkative and lively ; 
but as the afternoon wore alon^, it seemed more like 
Sunday. Usually an active person knowing they have 
nothing to do on a Sunday afternoon relaxes and gives 
way to nature. Such was our case, knowing our sight- 
seeing was over, and that we did not have to be on the 
alert for the next stop, almost every one was dozing. 
We reached Nebraska about 7 p. m., and as it was grow- 
ing dark there was not much to be seen. When we 
woke the following morning we were just out of Ne- 
braska, and flying across Iowa. The farms looked 
beautiful; so fresh and green, and I never saw such fine 
corn fields. The train stopped at a station called 
Manilla, and we all jumped off. It looked to be quite a 
town, and near it were fine wheat crops. That morning 
nearly every one in our car was packing up, and when 
we wanted any clean clothing or change of dress had 
to go to the baggage car, five cars back of us, so there 
was a great time there that morning. A little later we 
passed Cambridge, Iowa, where there had been a train 
wreck; three cars smashed to pieces, and the wrecking 
engine hard at work pulling it clear of the track. We 

141 



slowed up a little; but just cleared it nicely. A great 
many of us were dozing, when we felt the train stop. 
Up we jumped and off the train again while they changed 
engines at Marion, Iowa, where there was a very pretty, 
shady, square block park, and a number of men lying 
around under the trees, also children at play. There was 
a street of stores opposite and the temperature was loo 
in the shade. Some of the party took a few pictures. 
Further along in Iowa we passed a station called Lost 
Nation, and not long afterward crossed the Mississippi 
River at Savannah, then we were in Illinois, at 6 p. m. 
Arriving at Chicago at lo p. m._, we thought we would 
spend an hour or more, consequently a great many of 
us jumped off; but were only there about ten minutes 
when we were ordered all aboard, so we saw nothing of 
Chicago; but the longest city street in the United States 
is Western Avenue in Chicago, which is exactly twenty- 
two miles long. Its nearest rival is Halsted Street, also 
in Chicago, which is two-thirds of a mile shorter; but is 
so much more closely built up, that it is usually spoken of 
as the longest street in the world, and is crossed over 
and under by twenty railroads. The following morning 
on waking something seemed peculiar; but I could not 
tell what until I got down from my berth, at which time 
it looked as though we were riding backward; but I 
finally discovered that during the night our cars had 
been shifted, and instead of going back four cars to the 
diner, we only had to go one ahead. We passed Cleve- 
land, Ohio, at 7 130. Some very fine well kept vineyards 
in Ohio, also in Pennsylvania. We were at luncheon 
when the train stopped at Buffalo to let a few of our 
passengers off, among whom was the German woman 

142 



in our car. Her husband wanted her to get off at Chi- 
cago; but she did not want to: they had a quarrel, and 
he left the train at Chicago. Next morning she was 
very quiet for awhile, but a few of the boys began to 
joke with her about getting a divorce, and tried to find 
out how much she was worth, which caused a great deal 
of fun, and put her in good humor again. Every one 
called good-bye to her as she boarded the car for Penn- 
sylvania. We were due in Jersey City at lo p. m., and it 
was then 2 p. m., and we were just at Buffalo. We 
reached Geneva at 4 p. m., and about a dozen jumped 
off the train to telegraph home, as every one knew it 
would be after midnight when we reached Jersey City. 
All through the train people were visiting, and writing 
verses in souvenir books. The young people were play- 
ing ball with an orange. After dinner we watched the 
scenery as long as we could see, and as there were no 
bunks to be made up that night, nearly every one set- 
tled themselves for a nap in the seats, which were very 
comfortable; but somebody wanted a pillow, and that 
somebody made every one else want one, and just as you 
were nicely fixed ready for a nap, a pillow would fly at 
your head, until every one was roused and wide awake, 
then we all threw pillows at every one passing through 
the car, which made life lively for an hour or more, and 
by eleven o'clock we all subsided. About i p. m. we 
reached South Plainfield, and the party belonging there 
received a hearty welcome. The residents had torch- 
lights, red lights, and fire works, and shouted themselves 
hoarse. We all quieted down again, and it was 2 130 a. m. 
August 3, when we pulled in at the Pennsylvania station, 
tired out, and then each party had their various ways to 

143 



go to reach their homes. As near as I can figure we 
were on twelve different railroads, through or across 
seventeen states and two territories. The whole trip 
was an experience never to be forgotten, and I advise 
all who can do so, to try and see the wonders of nature. 
It will repay you. There are special trips being made 
up all the time for some occasion, and the fun and pleas- 
ure you have on the train is a feature in itself. I sin- 
cerely hope some day to see it all again. All the time 
we were away our people in New York and vicinity 
watched the papers anxiously, fearing accidents; but in 
Bayonne my dear old grandmother at the age of ninety- 
three, fell right by the side of the house, breaking her 
hip, which caused her death, so you see what is to be 
will be, and I find the best way to get along in this world 
is by being cheerful, and making the best of our lot. 
I for one of the Elks' party am thankful for the expe- 
riences of the wonderful trip, and the gallant treatment 
of the committee toward us, and sincerely trust they will 
all have an enjoyable tour next summer to Detroit, 
Mich. 

HE'S AN ELK 

If he's looking up, not down. 

He's an Elk. 
If he'd rather smile, than frown, 

He's an Elk. 
If he's jolly, broad and fat. 
If he wears a man's-sized hat. 
Take a tip from things like that; 

He's an Elk. 
144 



If he sees some good in all, 

He's an Elk. 
If he helps the men who fall, 

He's an Elk. 
If he looks you in the eye, 
Gives a courteous reply. 
If he's shrewd, but never sly. 

He's an Elk. 

When he dies and goes above, 

Brother Elk, 
To the golden gate of love. 

Brother Elk, 
Does St. Peter hesitate ? 
No ; he swings the pearly gate : 
" Come in ; you don't have to wait. 

Brother Elk." 
— By Brother Michael J. Phillips. 



THE TEN LITTLE LODGEMEN 

Ten little lodgemen went out to dine, 
A cocktail killed a Mason, then there were nine. 
Nine little lodgemen, drinking to their fate, 
Down went an Odd Fellow, then there were eight. 
Eight little lodgemen thinking of Heaven, 
A small bottle fixed a Forester, then there were seven. 
Seven little lodgemen playing funny tricks. 
Another cork, a Red Man, then there were six. 
Six little lodgemen trying to booze and thrive. 
The next round fixed a Workman, then there were five. 

145 



Five little lodgemen, the others on the floor, 

A Malta Knight gave up the ghost, then there were four. 

Four little lodgemen on a lonely spree, 

A Buffalo got his habit on, then there were three. 

Three little lodgemen left in a stew, 

A highball rolled a Pythian, then there were two. 

Two little lodgemen pretty nearly done, 

A Shriner couldn't stand the pace, then there was one. 

One little lodgeman drinking all alone. 

He was an Elk and he took the whole bunch home. 



THE END. 



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